Iberis Purity. Picture courtesy Ball Horticultural Company

Condensed Version:

This easy to grow and fast-flowering little annual will quickly cover any unsightly bare spots in the garden throughout summer. It grows about 25cm tall, with a spread of 40cm, and is loved by gardeners for its abundant clusters of sweetly scented, pure white, lavender or pink flowers in spring and summer, showing off beautifully against the attractive dark green leaves.

Candytuft grows well throughout South Africa but does best in the cooler regions of the country which receive good rainfall. It is fully frost hardy and although it thrives in full sun, will take light shade. It prefers a light well drained soil, but adapts to most garden soils, as long as they drain well. Candytuft can be sown directly into garden beds almost throughout the year in cool regions, but germinates best in autumn or spring when the soil temperatures are between 15 and 22°C, and flowering should begin about 12 weeks after sowing.

Full Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

This Candytuft is native to the Mediterranean region, and can be found growing in most parts of Europe, but is especially abundant along the coasts, from Spain to Greece, where it favours growing on dry rocky hillsides, in bushy areas and in clearings, preferably on calcareous soils, at an altitude of 0 to 1,300 metres above sea level. Calcareous soils are mostly or partly composed of calcium carbonate - in other words, containing lime or being chalky.

The name Candytuft conjures up images of sweet confections, but it is actually named for the Mediterranean area of Candia, the former name of Iraklion on the Island of Crete. The genus name comes from the name "Iberia", the ancient name of Spain, while the Latin name for the species "umbellata", means "umbrella" and refers to the shape of the flower clusters.

During the 16th century, candytuft seed was brought from Crete to England, and it became known in colonial American gardens in the late 18th century, when well known horticulturist Bernard McMahon first offered the seed for sale in the 1804 edition of his Catalogue.

This low-growing, spreading little plant only grows about 25cm tall, with a spread of 40cm, and is loved by gardeners for its abundant clusters of sweetly scented, pure white, lavender or pink flowers in spring and summer, showing off beautifully against the attractive dark green leaves.

Uses:

A member of the mustard family, this Colonial favourite was used for centuries as a seasoning, and always included in the herb garden as a treatment for rheumatism.

In the Garden:

Candytuft is so versatile in the garden, and considered one of the best plants to grow for edging purposes, and particularly useful for providing a colourful ground cover. It is also wonderful in scented and cottage gardens, and even rock or gravel gardens. This easy to grow and fast-flowering annual will quickly cover any unsightly bare spots in the garden throughout summer. The flowers last well in a vase and are perfect for small, romantic posies.

Cultivation/Propagation:

This annual Candytuft grows well throughout South Africa but does best in the cooler regions of the country which receive good rainfall, and will struggle in very hot, dry regions. It is fully frost hardy and although it thrives in full sun, will take light shade.  Preferring a light well drained soil, but adapting to most garden soils, Candytuft can grow in chalk, loam or sandy soils which are mildly acid, neural, or alkaline to very alkaline, as long as they drain well.

Candytuft can be sown directly into garden beds almost throughout the year in cool regions, but germinates best in autumn or spring when the soil temperatures are between 15 and 22°C. Lightly rake the seeds into the soil and keep them moist until germination, which can take 2 to 3 weeks. Thin out the seedlings to space them about 20cm apart. Flowering should begin about 12 weeks after sowing. Water regularly, especially during hot, dry spells, and cut back after flowering. At the end of the season, leave a few plants to die down and self-seed, others can be pulled up and composted.

Problems, Pests & Diseases:

A healthy plant but prone to slugs, snails and caterpillars.

Warning:

Nothing was found documented for Iberis umbellate, but the sap of Iberis sempervirens is listed, and may cause a skin rash or irritation. Wash the affected area of skin with soap and water as soon as possible after contact. The rashes may be very serious and painful. Call the Poison Control Centre or your doctor if symptoms appear following contact with the plants.

Click here to see under Delphinium

 Condensed Version:Namaqualand Daisy Image by NauticalVoyager from Pixabay

Namaqualand Daisies grow quickly to about 35cm tall and 30cm wide, and their daisy flowers come in the traditional bright orange and yellow, as well as pastel shades like salmon, cream and pure white.

They are sown directly into garden beds in autumn and require as much sunlight as you can provide as the flowers only open in the sun and will close at night or on overcast days. In your seed packet you are likely to find both types of seed i.e. the well-known “flake” seed (a light, disc-shaped cream seed) and a dry or “stick” seed. Never throw away the small little stick-like seeds as they will germinate and produce the same species.

In the winter rainfall regions seeds are sown in late autumn or early winter (April to May), and in the rest of the country they are best sown when the daytime temperatures are between 18 to 22°C.

Namaqualand daisies will adapt to most garden soils with good drainage but love light, well-drained soil. Prepare the beds by digging them over well, breaking down any clods of soil and removing stones, and in poor soils the addition of some compost will do wonders. Once the beds are prepared water the ground before you sow as a wet bed makes it easier for the light seed to stick to the surface of the soil.

Choose a calm, wind-free day to sow or the winged seeds may just blow away. Sprinkle the seeds evenly across the bed and then lightly rake it in, or you can cover the seed with about 2cm of soil, also raking it in lightly. To eliminate any air spaces between the soil and seed, which could be fatal to the tender emerging radicle, it is important to gently press the soil down. This can be done by hand, or by rolling the soil with a piece of plastic piping, or even a flat plank. Finish off with a light sprinkling with a fine hose.

Keep the soil moist but not soggy until the seeds germinate, and when the young plants are a few centimetres tall, thin them out to space them about 20 to 25cm apart. Namaqualand daisies will take anything from 4 to 14 days to germinate, and will flower about 3 months after sowing.

In the winter rainfall regions, once the seedlings have established themselves they will not need supplemental watering, but in the summer rainfall regions they will require moderate watering throughout winter. 

African Daisy. Picture courtesy Scott ParrishFull Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

Namaqualand Daisies (Dimorphotheca sinuate) are easy to grow winter and spring flowering annuals which are sown directly into sunny garden beds in autumn. They will grow quickly to about 30cm tall and 30cm wide, and their daisy flowers come in the traditional bright orange and yellow, as well as pastel shades like salmon, cream and pure white.

These showy indigenous annuals belong to the genus Dimorphotheca, a southern African genus consisting of 15 species. Dimorphotheca is a member of the daisy family (Asteraceae), which includes well-known members like cosmos, everlastings, chrysanthemums, sunflowers, and blackjacks, and the name “Dimorphotheca” means ‘fruits with two forms’, referring to the two different kinds of seeds produced in some species, with some producing wingless and stick-like fruits, while others form flattened 2-winged seeds. The name “sinuate” means ‘wavy edged’ or ‘sinuous’ and is in reference to the wavy leaf margins.

Namaqualand daisies grow naturally in the winter-rainfall regions of South Africa, from Saldanha Bay in the Western Cape to Namaqualand in the Northern Cape, and extending into Namibia. They grow wild in sandy or disturbed places, and are renowned worldwide for the abundance of flowers they produce, carpeting the bare veldt from mid-winter to spring (August to October), and drawing visitors from far and wide to see the spectacular show they put on in Namaqualand, after good winter rains.

In the Garden:

Namaqualand daisies also adorn many gardens at this time, and remain a favourite for gardeners because they are economical, water-wise, and easy to grow from seed sown directly into garden beds. An added bonus is that at the end of the growing season you can collect seeds to sow next season, so you only have to buy them once.

These daisies will attract butterflies and bees to the garden, providing a vital food resource at a time of year when nectar is scarce, so even if you have a small garden, sow a small packet this autumn and you will find yourself adding these lovely flowers to your garden each year.  

Namaqualand daisies are used as a low cover around shrubs in hot, sunny beds, or as the focal point in mass plantings. They make cheerful fillers amongst dormant roses, and pretty borders, so sow them in mass into large beds, rockeries or borders for hassle-free winter and spring colour.

Cultivation/Propagation:

These easy to grow winter annuals are sown directly into garden beds in autumn. They require as much sunlight as you can provide as the flowers only open in the sun and will close at night or on overcast days. They grow quickly to about 30cm tall and 30cm wide, and are hardy to severe frost.

In your seed packet you are likely to find both types of seed i.e. the well-known “flake” seed (a light, disc-shaped cream seed) and a dry or “stick” seed. Never throw away the small little stick-like seeds as they will germinate and produce the same species.

In the winter rainfall regions seeds are sown in late autumn or early winter (April to May), and in the rest of the country they are best sown when the daytime temperatures are between 18 to 22°C.

Namaqualand daisies will adapt to most garden soils with good drainage but love light, well-drained soil. Prepare the beds by digging them over well, breaking down any clods of soil and removing stones, and in poor soils the addition of some compost will do wonders. Once the beds are prepared water the ground before you sow as a wet bed makes it easier for the light seed to stick to the surface of the soil.

Choose a calm, wind-free day to sow or the winged seeds may just blow away. Sprinkle the seeds evenly across the bed and then lightly rake them in, or you can cover the seed with about 2cm of soil, also raking it in lightly. To eliminate any air spaces between the soil and seed, which could be fatal to the tender emerging radicle, it is important to gently press the soil down. This can be done by hand, or by rolling the soil with a piece of plastic piping, or even by pressing it down with a flat plank. Finish off with a light sprinkling of water with a fine hose.

Keep the soil moist but not soggy until the seeds germinate, and when the young plants are a few centimetres tall, thin them out to space them about 20 to 25cm apart. Namaqualand daisies will take anything from 4 to 14 days to germinate, and will flower about 3 months after sowing.

In the winter rainfall regions, once the seedlings have established themselves they will not need supplemental watering, but in the summer rainfall regions they will require moderate watering throughout winter.  

The brownish seeds with their papery wings appear soon after the flowers wilt, and because they are easily blown away by the wind, if you wish to collect some to sow again next season, they need to be collected as soon as they become brown. Collecting seed has always been a favourite with small children, and sowing them again next season from their own seeds is even more exciting.

Pests & Diseases:

As the weather warms up in spring, aphids can become a problem. They can be treated with insecticidal soap.

Ensure that the plants are correctly spaced to allow for good airflow around the leaves as this discourages fungal infections.

Warning:

We did not find this plant listed as poisonous, but it is always advisable to supervise small children in the garden, and to discourage your pets from chewing on pants.

Picture courtesy Malcolm MannersPhlox are garden annuals of exceptional quality and character. They are native to Texas and are widely distributed in the south-eastern United States. The latest varieties are both free-flowering and compact growing. The flowers are fragrant and splendid for cutting and the large clusters of delicate blooms come in many pastel and bright shades of red, pink, coral, blue, lilac, purple white and even yellow. Some varieties have beautiful fringed, star-shaped petals with a white edge. Use them in the flower border or in containers. These low-growing plants mass beautifully and are always attractive in annual flowerbeds and along walkways. They also grow easily in containers of all shapes and sizes.

Phlox grow well throughout the country as long as they can be watered regularly in dry regions. In very hot areas plant them where they will receive shade during the hottest part of the day and in humid regions plant them in autumn. Phlox grow easily in full sun to light shade and are hardy to all but severe frost. Plant them into good well-drained soil and water them regularly. The new compact varieties will grow quickly to about 25cm tall and 20cm wide.

Picture courtesy Malcolm MannersPhlox can be grown almost throughout the year in South Africa but grow best in the cooler season. Sow seed in seedling trays in autumn or spring. Germination will take 3 to 7 days in ideal soil temperatures between 15 and 21°C. Use a sterile, soil-less growing medium like perlite or palm peat. Cover the seed with about 1cm of vermiculite as darkness is required for germination. Place the trays in a cool place. Make sure that the compost is moist but not wet and seal the trays with a clear plastic bag or a pane of glass until germination. Your plants will bloom about 12 to 14 weeks after sowing. To help prevent fungal diseases, water your transplanted seedlings moderately for the first two weeks and then allow them to dry out moderately before watering. Do not however, allow your seedlings to wilt. Pinch out the main shoot to promote bushy growth and feed every 6 weeks with a liquid fertiliser.

Lupins. Picture courtesy Sylvia OreifigThis unusual plant is native to Mexico and produces long-stemmed spikes, bearing pea-shaped flowers in winter and spring, in shades of yellow, white, rose, lilac and blue. They are excellent cut-flowers and both the flowers and berries are used by florists. They are wonderful cottage garden plants that are most eye-catching when planted in large masses.

Lupins grow best in regions that receive good summer rainfall and have cool winters, and are not suited to very hot, dry or humid regions. Lupins are hardy to moderate frost and love full sun. Plant them in rich well-drained, lime-free soil and water them regularly. Protect them from strong wind and stake the flowers if necessary. Cut back the stems when they are finished blooming to ensure continued flowering. They will grow about 60 to 80cm tall and 30 to 45 cm wide.

Lupines fix nitrogen into the soil that feeds other plants. At the end of the growing season, cut the foliage down to the ground, leaving the roots, and dig the entire plant into the soil.

Seed can be sown directly into garden beds in spring or late summer when the daytime temperatures are about 15 and 20°C. Sow them in drills about 30cm apart and about 6mm deep. You should nick the seeds outer coating before sowing, by rubbing the outer shell of the seed with sandpaper or a file. It takes a little practice to make a cut that is deep enough to help, but not deep enough to damage the seed. Soak the seeds in warm water overnight. Seedlings should emerge within 10 to 21 days, depending on soil and weather conditions. They will bloom from 12 to 14 weeks later.

Sweet Peas Dwarf Mix. Picture courtesy Nu-leaf Nursery

Condensed Version:

Sweet peas, also called “Pronkertjies”, grow well throughout South Africa, and are generally pretty hardy to frost. However, in extremely cold regions, and where the weather remains cool during spring and early summer, the late flowering varieties are sown, or trays of seedling are planted out in spring to flower in early summer. In the winter rainfall regions they are wonderful water-wise additions to the winter and spring garden. In areas with hot or humid summers, the key to growing sweet peas is to purchase a variety that will bloom before the summer heat sets in. Look out for varieties that say ‘early flowering’ or ‘early multiflora’.

Sweet peas are easy to grow but are hungry plants that love rich soil with regular feeding, and as much sun as they can get. They also look best if planted in a spot protected from strong winds. The seed is generally sown in autumn, and is best sown directly into garden beds when the temperatures are between 13 and 20°C, but trays of seedlings can also be planted out.

Prepare trenches for the climbing varieties a week or two before planting or sowing by digging a trench about 50 to 60cm deep and 30cm wide, adding lots of compost and well-rotted manure.  Also dig in organic 2:3:2, and bone meal or superphosphate; and if your soil is acid add a light dressing of agricultural lime.  Put the soil mixture back into the trench, forming a long mound in which to sow your seeds. Water the trench well and allow it to settle before planting. Dwarf sweet peas need not be planted in trenches, but prepare your soil, and care for them as for the climbing varieties.

Sweet peas grow well in pots as long as the soil is rich and well-drained. Remember that potted plants will require more regular watering than those growing in the ground, and don’t forget to feed them regularly, or use a slow release fertiliser in the soil at planting time. 

Climbers need support and the support must be erected before sowing or planting. Investing in a sweet pea net or fairly fine netting of sorts which can easily be attached to a row of posts is really worthwhile. Sweet peas growing up netting will easily attach with their tendrils, reducing the time spent having to tie them up. 

To speed up germination soak the seed overnight in tepid water before sowing. Many gardeners have better germination rates if they lightly nick the seeds with nail clippers before soaking. Plant at the depth indicated on the seed packet (usually about 2 to 3cm deep) and 10 to 15cm apart for the climbing varieties, or 15 to 20cm apart for the bushy ones. This plant needs proper air circulation, so check the seed packet to ensure that your spacing is correct. If you’re planting climbers around a structure like an obelisk or tee-pee, plant 2 seeds about 5cm apart next to each stake, and when the shoots are big enough, remove the weaker of the 2 seedlings. 

Water thoroughly after sowing, keeping the soil moist but not soggy, and the seeds will germinate within a week or two, depending on the soil temperature, and will take 16 to 20 weeks to flower, depending on the variety.

To encourage bushy growth, pinch back your plants when they are about 15cm tall. Keep up the pinching throughout the season when you see vines looking a little leggy, or if you want to increase the bushiness of your dwarf plants. Deadhead faded flowers and cut away any emerging seed pods regularly to prolong blooming and keep your plants from going to seed early.

Another way to prolong the blooming season is to fertilise regularly and to keep on picking the blooms – the more you pick, the more they bloom! Feed every 2 weeks during the growing season with a balanced, water-soluble fertiliser for flowering plants.

Established sweet pea plants will go to seed more quickly if the soil is allowed to dry out completely, so water deeply in the morning once or twice a week, or as needed, depending on your local climate and weather conditions.

Sweet peas. Picture Sebastian Crump from flickrFull Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

Perhaps because of their long history sweet peas could be called “old fashioned”, but gardeners and breeders alike know they are as lovely and rewarding as ever, and new, ever more enchanting and  fragrant cultivars are continually released.

Sweet peas, also called “Pronkertjies”, are lovely cut flowers, spreading their heady scent throughout the garden and home, and the more you pick them, the more they bloom. They are available in almost every conceivable colour, except for yellow and are so easy to grow they are suitable for children’s gardens.  All they need to flourish is full sun, rich soil, and regular feeding and watering. It’s no wonder people have been romancing the sweet pea for hundreds of years.

Sweet peas reside in the genus Lathyrus in the legume family Fabaceae, and are native to the eastern Mediterranean, including southern Italy, the Aegean Island region, Sicily, and Cyprus. A Sicilian monk, Francesco Cupani (1657 – 1710), who was also a renowned naturalist and botanist, was so enamoured with the sweet aroma and simple but beautiful blooms of wild sweet peas he carefully documented the plant, and thus became the first known botanist to do so.

He probably also gave it the scientific name Lathyrus odoratus, as in 1692 he became the first Director of the botanic garden at Misilmeri, where the plants were classified in a system of taxonomy called “binary nomenclature”, or simply put, a two-term naming system given to all species of living things, with each name composed of two parts, both of which use Latin grammatical forms, although they can also be based on words from other languages. This system was later made standard by Carl Linnaeus, who is called the "father of modern taxonomy".  A good example of this system is the Sweet Pea.  Its scientific name “Lathyrus odorata” derives from the Greek word “lathyros” for pea or pulse, and the Latin word “odoratus” which means fragrant.

Cupani’s romance with the sweet pea did not end there as he recognised the breeding potential of this fragrant bloom and started growing sweet peas in the gardens for breeding purposes. Because his work put him in contact with many other famous botanists, like all keen gardeners, he sent seeds to plant collectors and botanical institutions around the world, including those in England and Holland.  One recipient, a botanist at a medical school in Amsterdam later published a paper on sweet peas, which included the very first botanical illustration of Lathyrus odoratus. To this day, what is called the “Cupani” Sweet Pea, with its heady fragrance and beautiful blooms, remains a popular garden variety.

Click here to see Google images of the ‘Cupani’ sweet pea.

Cupani also documented one called “Painted Lady”, which also remains one of the very best heirloom types, and the most highly scented sweet pea you can grow. Its bi-coloured pale pink and darker pink-flowers also appear earlier than other sweet pea varieties.

Click here to see Google images of ‘Painted Lady’

Some of the seed sent to Britain in 1699 went to a man called Dr Robert Uvedale (1642–1722), of Enfield, in Middlesex, but from these only a few new forms of sweet pea appeared. In 1793 the seedsman John Mason, of Fleet Street in London described five varieties, including white and scarlet types, a black-flowered form that was probably maroon, and a purple variety that was most likely from the original Cupani wild type introduced from Sicily in 1699 by Francis Cupani.

The romance between plant breeders and the sweet pea continued, and a Scottish nurseryman, Henry Eckford (1823 –1905) created many of the sweet peas we still grow today. He worked as a gardener until 1888, then, at the age of 65 he set up his own nursery at Wem, in Shropshire, to dedicate the rest of his life to improving and expanding the limited selection of sweet peas then available. His work resulted in greatly increased flower size and a much larger variety of flower colours. He perfected the breeding of his “Grandiflora” sweet peas, which were such a great improvement over previous varieties they turned the sweet pea from a relatively unknown wildflower to one of the most popular flowers of the Victorian era. As reward for his hard work, Eckford was granted a Victoria Medal of Honour by the Royal Horticultural Society, and as they say, the rest is history.

By today’s standards, Eckfords Grandiflora group of sweet peas may be considered to have relatively small flowers and short stems with three, sometimes four flowers to a stem, but these heirloom seeds are still sought after for their flowers and wonderful, strong scent.

Click here to see Google images of Henry Eckford’s sweet peas. 

The mutation of truly large sweet pea flowers occurred in the 1900’s at Althorp House in West Northamptonshire, where gardener Silas Cole grew and bred many of Henry Eckford's grandiflora varieties. To his delight, one of his plants threw up huge, bright pink flowers with gorgeous, wavy petals, and most importantly, still retained its lovely scent. He named it “Countess Spencer” and exhibited it at the National Sweet Pea Society's first show in 1901, at the Royal Aquarium in Westminster, London, where it created quite a stir. The Royal Aquarium and Winter Garden was sadly demolished in 1903.

Everyone went mad for this frilly, flamboyant, scented flower and even more work went into expanding the range of the so-called “Spencer” sweet pea types that they gradually became available in almost every colour but yellow, and many of these varieties are still grown today.

Click here to see Google images of Spencer sweet peas.

The world famous Unwins Seeds Company was formed by William Unwin in 1903 by first selling sweet pea seeds, and in 1914 his son Charles, who also had an interest in sweet peas, joined the business. William and Charles bred lots of these new varieties, and had also found a frilly form which William named “Gladys Unwin” which was widely used as a cut flower for the Covent Garden market, and eventually this sweet pea became the basis of Unwin's Seed Company. 'Gladys Unwin' proved to be more stable than Cole's 'Countess Spencer', so William released and marketed it as “Countess Spencer Improved” and she was a great success.

Unwins Seeds was bought by Westland Horticulture of Dungannon, County Tyrone in August 2004, but Unwin sweet peas remain popular with gardeners and are still available today.

Click here to see Google images of them.

Henry Eckford's breakthrough also inspired many other hybridists who moved on to what was called "stripes" and "flakes".  A stripe sweet pea had a darker edge colour to the rest of the petal, called a "picotée edge".  A flake had no picotée edge, but rather displayed ‘flaky’ colouring on both sides of each petal. These were all the rage in the nineteen twenties and thirties and are having a big revival now in many parts of the world, with varieties called “Ripple” sweet peas, with interesting names like, 'Wiltshire Ripple', 'Blue Ripple', and the almost-black, 'Nimbus'.

Click here to see Google images of the stunning 'Ripple' Sweet Peas.

Grandiflora sweet peas can be broadly split into two groups, the ‘Antique Heirlooms’ are the older heritage varieties, many dating back to the turn of the 19th century, and the ‘Modern Grandifloras’ with their large flowers, and lots of them, coupled with the long stems of the Spencer types, and the bonus of the fantastic scent from the original 'Cupani' sweet pea, it is impossible not to fall in love with sweet peas!

In the past few decades, there have also been sweet pea developments, regarding the size of the plants themselves, and besides the traditional climbers, we have dwarf varieties for containers, and medium-sized ‘Knee-high’ climbers to make hedges, and we even have early and late flowering types.

Today sweet peas are available in a mind-blowing selection of single and mixed colours ranging from almost black to pink, blue, lilac, purple, red, white, and all the shades in-between. In fact they are available in almost every conceivable colour, except for the ever elusive yellow.

Sweet Pea Bouquet. Image by utroja0 from PixabayIn the Garden & Home:

Once you have grown sweet peas successfully in the garden there’s no going back, and you’re sure to save space for them every season. They are so easy even children love growing them, and the seeds are large enough for even the tiniest of fingers to handle. Ensure that children are supervised when planting the seeds as they are poisonous.

The biggest joy of growing sweet peas is picking large bunches to fill your home with their delightful scent and vibrant colours. They only last about five days in the vase, but are well worth arranging in uncomplicated bouquets.

Sweet peas are available as climbers which can be grown anywhere they have some support, knee-high’s are great in the middle of a winter and spring flower border, and dwarf varieties are great border plants and fabulous in pots, window boxes and hanging baskets, so there’s no excuse not to have some sweet peas, even in the smallest of gardens.

Sweet peas go well with many winter and spring flowering annuals and bulbs, the choice is yours, so be inspired to create your very own little piece of paradise.

Cultivation/Propagation:

Sweet peas grow well throughout South Africa, and are generally pretty hardy to frost. However, in extremely cold regions, and where the weather remains cool during spring and early summer, the late flowering varieties are sown, or trays of seedling are planted out in spring to flower in early summer. In the winter rainfall regions they are wonderful water-wise additions to the winter and spring garden. In areas with hot or humid summers, the key to growing sweet peas is to purchase a variety that will bloom before the summer heat sets in. Look out for varieties that say ‘early flowering’ or ‘early multiflora’.

Picture courtesy Sebastian Crump from flickrSweet peas are easy to grow but it is good to remember that they are hungry plants that love rich soil with regular feeding, and as much sun as they can get. They also look best if planted in a spot protected from strong winds. The seed is generally sown in autumn, and is best sown directly into garden beds when the temperatures are between 13 and 20°C, but trays of seedlings can also be planted out.

Prepare trenches for the climbing varieties a week or two before planting or sowing by digging a trench about 50 to 60cm deep and 30cm wide, adding lots of compost and well-rotted manure to the soil. Also dig in organic 2:3:2, and bone meal or superphosphate; and if your soil is acid add a light dressing of agricultural lime.  If you have some wood ash (not charcoal), this is also excellent dug into the soil.  Put the soil mixture back into the trench, forming a long mound in which to sow your seeds. Water the trench well and allow it to settle before planting. Dwarf sweet peas need not be planted in trenches, but prepare your soil, and care for them as for the climbing varieties.

Sweet peas also grow well in pots as long as the soil is rich and well-drained. Remember that potted plants will require more regular watering than those growing in the ground, so check the pots often, and don’t forget to feed them regularly, or use a slow release fertiliser in the soil at planting time.  

Climbers need support and the support must be erected before sowing or planting. Investing in a sweet pea net or fairly fine netting of sorts which can easily be attached to a row of posts is really worthwhile. These nets can usually be stored for use next season, or they can be used in summer to grow climbing green beans. Sweet peas growing up netting will easily attach with their tendrils, reducing the time spent having to tie them up.  You can also make a wigwam using four tall dowel rods, or bamboo, and tie the netting around them. Even long branches trimmed off of trees would work.

To speed up germination soak the seed overnight in tepid water before sowing. Many gardeners have better germination rates if they lightly nick the seeds with nail clippers before soaking. Plant at the depth indicated on the seed packet (usually about 2 to 3cm deep) and 10 to 15cm apart for the climbing varieties, or 15 to 20cm apart for the bushy ones. This plant needs ‘elbow room’ for proper air circulation and to ensure the roots don’t get too crowded, so check the seed packet to ensure that your spacing is correct.

If you’re planting climbers around a structure like an obelisk or tee-pee, plant 2 seeds about 5cm apart next to each stake, and when the shoots are big enough, remove the weaker of the 2 seedlings. 

Water thoroughly after sowing, keeping the soil moist but not soggy, and the seeds will germinate within a week or two, depending on the soil temperature, and will take 16 to 20 weeks to flower, depending on the variety.

To encourage bushy growth, pinch back your plants when they are about 15cm tall. Keep up the pinching throughout the season when you see vines looking a little leggy, or if you want to increase the bushiness of your dwarf plants. Pinching back the plant is easy, just pinch off the stem tip and new leaf growth right above an established set of leaves, using clean shears or the tips of your fingernails. Deadhead faded flowers and cut away any emerging seed pods regularly to prolong blooming and keep your plants from going to seed early.

Another way to prolong the blooming season is to fertilise regularly and to keep on picking the blooms – the more you pick, the more they bloom! Feed every 2 weeks during the growing season with a balanced, water-soluble fertiliser for flowering plants.

Sweet Pea Purple

Established sweet pea plants will go to seed more quickly if the soil is allowed to dry out completely, so water deeply in the morning once or twice a week, or as needed, depending on your local climate and weather conditions.

Seed can easily be saved from the previous year's plants, although not all varieties reproduce exact replicas of the parent. Remove the mature seed pods from the plants and put them in a paper bag to dry out. Once they are dry the pods can be popped open to release the seeds, and stored in a cool, dry place.

Problems, Pests & Diseases:

Sweet peas do not suffer from serious pests and diseases, and because they are grown in the cooler months, insect activity is at a minimum. However, as the weather warms up in spring watch out for common summer pests like aphids, leaf-miners, and red spider mites, which can be treated with an insecticidal soap or neem oil. Early spring rains will bring out the snails and slugs, so keep an eye out for them too.

If plants are incorrectly spaced, or don’t get enough sun, mildew can be a problem. Address this issue by thinning the plants out and applying a fungicide.

Warning:

The seeds of sweet peas are mildly poisonous, containing lathyrogens that, if ingested in large quantities can cause a condition called Lathyrus. Symptoms of Lathyrus are paralysis, laboured breathing, and convulsions. Always supervise children and pets in the garden, discouraging them from chewing on plants.

Vintage Mixed Matthiola Picture courtesy Ball Horticultural CompanyStocks are among our oldest and dearly-loved garden flowers. They are native to the lands along the Mediterranean from Spain to Turkey and south to Egypt, where they grow on rocky cliffs and harsh, dry land. They were introduced to England in the 1500s and are grown for their sweet perfume at night and handsome cut-flowers in shades of pink, mauve, crimson, purple, cream, yellow, peach and white.

There are both dwarf and tall varieties available, ranging in height from 30 to 70cm tall. Stocks are invaluable in the flower border and the dwarf varieties are easy-to-grow in containers. Plant them near the house beneath windows, along walkways, and in containers on patios where their perfume can be enjoyed.

Vintage Red Matthiola. Picture courtesy Ball Horticultural Company Double-flowered stocks are prized by gardeners for their floral display but are sterile and have to be produced from single varieties. Therefore, stocks do not always produce double flowers but modern strains produce doubles in high proportions of 60% or even 80%.

Stocks are grown throughout South Africa in winter and spring. They love full sun and are hardy to frost. They need deeply-dug soil enriched with compost and prefer a slightly alkaline soil, so add a dusting of agricultural lime to beds. Good drainage is essential to avoid root-rot.

Seed can be sown in seedling trays in late summer and germinate best in soil temperatures between 18 and 24°C. Cover the seeds lightly with vermiculite or palm peat. The seeds can take 3 to 5 days to germinate and the plants will take about 12 to 15 weeks to flower, depending on the variety and the climate. Keep humidity high until germination and then reduce humidity. Do not overwater.

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