This popular indoor plant is grown for its beautiful flowers for many weeks. They are available all year round; in full bloom. The double flowers are available in shades of pink and white, yellow, orange and red.

They can be grown outdoors in summer in temperate regions in a secluded, shady garden bed or on a secluded patio. The soil must be enriched but very well-drained. Try burying the flowering pots into window boxes or hanging baskets etc. for 'instant colour'.

Place it in bright, indirect light indoors and keep the atmosphere moist, by mist spraying the leaves with tepid water daily. Never allow the soil to totally dry out and feed it regularly with a flowering, pot plant food.

It is best to discard the tuber after flowering.
 

Condensed Version:

Cyclamens never fail to delight gardeners with their swept-back flower petals resembling shooting stars, and their heart-shaped leaves embroidered with intricate, silvery patterns. They are hugely popular indoor pot plants, but will also grow outdoors, and if cared for correctly, the plants will bloom continuously all winter and spring. Sadly, however, most will wither and die, much to the horror of their owners! The good news is, if you provide cyclamens with the conditions they love, they will multiply and miraculously appear again every autumn when the weather cools down, freely providing their abundance of beautiful blooms year after year.  

Hybridization has spoiled us for choice concerning colour, and today cyclamens are found in many single and bi-coloured shades of lavender, pink, rose, maroon, red, or white. Modern cyclamen hybrids also have many interesting flower traits including size, ruffled petals and double flowers.

The florists’ cyclamen is tender to frost but can be grown outdoors in frosty regions, as long as the plants are sited beneath evergreen trees and shrubs, or under a roof or overhang, which will protect them from frost.  Also, select a sheltered spot, away from freezing cold winds. If you are planting tubers or potted plants into garden beds, ensure that you do not plant too deep, ensuring that the top of the tuber is still visible above the soil.

Cyclamens growing outdoors thrive in dappled shade, and indoors they like good light but no direct sunlight. They are very tolerant of diverse soil types, as long as they are reasonably fertile and drain well. If you feed your cyclamen during the growing season, using a regular houseplant fertiliser for flowering plants, it will reward you will blooms continually.

The plant is a bit fussy about watering and more plants die from overwatering than under watering, so allow the soil to almost dry out completely before watering. Also, the plant can rot from the crown if watered overhead, making drip irrigation perfect for cyclamens growing in garden beds. Potted plants should be watered from the bottom, or the leaves can be gently lifted and the plant watered around the edge of the pot - not over the tuber. The easiest way to water potted plants is to stand the pot in a shallow drip tray filled with water. Allow the plant to soak up what it needs before discarding the excess water. Do not allow the plant to constantly stand in a tray of water.

Because cyclamens do not like heat, and temperatures above 20°C may induce the plant to go dormant, one of the tricks to growing them successfully is to keep them cool. This is especially important if you are growing them indoors, so keep them well away from heat sources, and do not place them in hot rooms.

To keep plants blooming, remove flowers as they finish by cutting the stems near the base of the plant. Sometimes the petals will fall off and leave a round seed capsule that resembles a flower bud - remove these too, as well as any unsightly yellow or withered leaves.

As the weather warms up in early summer, cyclamens growing in the wild naturally go dormant, but in gardens where they receive summer watering, the leaves may persist. This is not a problem as long as rainfall is not excessive and the soil has perfect drainage. Because it is best to leave the tubers virtually dry during their summer rest period, many gardeners move their potted specimens to a spot outdoors which is sheltered from excessive rainfall and heat. As the growth cycle starts again in autumn, start watering and feeding regularly again.

Cyclamen 'Frille'r Scarlet. Picture courtesy www.ballstraathof.co.zaFull Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

Florists’ cyclamens never fail to delight gardeners with their swept-back flower petals resembling shooting stars, and their heart-shaped leaves embroidered with intricate, silvery patterns. They start showing up in grocery stores and garden centres throughout South Africa in autumn, and for many people their first encounter with these fascinating plants is when they are given one as a gift. If cared for correctly the plants will bloom continuously all winter and spring, but sadly most will wither and die, much to the horror of their owners! The good news is, if you provide cyclamens with the conditions they love, they will multiply and miraculously appear again every autumn when the weather cools down, freely providing their abundance of beautiful blooms year after year.
 
Cyclamens belong to the beautiful Primrose (Primulaceae) family of plants and the Florists Cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) is only one of 23 species, but by far the most well-known. It was introduced in Europe at the end of the 16th century, but for a long time remained a rare curiosity in specialty collections.

There are many rich stories about cyclamen, and at the beginning of the 16th century Leonardo Da Vinci favoured the cyclamen and columbine by covering the margins of his manuscripts with them. The 17th century Flemish painters scattered cyclamens on the meadows of their paintings depicting Jesus picking flowers under the watchful eye of the angels. Louis XIV received them in bunches, along with many other flowers, to adorn the lounges of Versailles, and Jean-Jacques Rousseau spoke in his ‘Promenades’ of the wild cyclamens he discovered in the Alps. By the 1800s the cyclamen was prized by the Victorians for its winter colour, and quickly became a popular Christmas decoration - a tradition that has grown into a huge business today. So enamoured were the Victorians that they started breeding with the plant, and this led to the multitudinous number of cultivars that we see today.

Cyclamen persicum, the wild species from which the many florists cyclamen hybrids are derived, grows in a typically Mediterranean climate with hot dry summers and warm wet winters. In these regions it can grow in great drifts of thousands of plants, filling the air with their sweet scent. Cyclamens also grow wild in North Africa, the eastern Aegean and the northeast corner of the Mediterranean. They are found in Algeria, Tunisia, Karpathos, Rhodes, Symi, Chios, Cyprus; and from mainland Turkey through Syria, Lebanon, Israel and into Jordan.

Cyclamens thrive from sea level to 1200m, mainly in open situations, on “terra rossa” soils. Terra rossa is Italian for "red soil" and this type of red clay, typical in Mediterranean climates, is produced by the weathering of limestone. When limestone weathers, the clay contained in the rocks is left behind, along with any other non-soluble rock material. Under oxidizing conditions, when the soils are above the water table, iron oxide (rust) forms in the clay, giving it a characteristic red to orange colour. Compared to most clay soils, terra rossa has surprisingly good drainage characteristics, making it a popular soil type for wine production.

Most of the work with florist cyclamens occurred in England, Netherlands, Germany, and Japan. Hybridization has spoiled us for choice concerning colour, and today cyclamens are found in many single and bi-coloured shades of lavender, pink, rose, maroon, red, or white; including breakthrough hues like true red and pale yellow. Modern cyclamens also have many interesting flower traits, including size, ruffled petals, double flowers, and the delightful ‘picotee’ flowers, whose edges are a different colour than the flower's base colour.

New cultivation methods and new F1 hybrid varieties now also offer longer-lasting, hardier and more regular flowering varieties. More recently, hybridization efforts have focused on re-introducing the lovely scent of cyclamens, which was sadly lost during the development of larger plants, so watch out for these.

Uses:

Although cyclamens have been used as ornamentals for the last 400 years or so, they have been used medicinally for over 2000 years. The Greek doctor and botanist, Dioscorides, documented several medical uses for cyclamen that include its use as a purgative, to speed up the delivery of babies, to cause abortions, to make hair re-grow, and as an amorous medicine which caused the person taking it to fall violently in love. The Roman naturalist, Pliny the Elder, described how cyclamen tubers and roots were used to poison fish.  

If eaten raw, cyclamen tubers are poisonous to people and can cause violent diarrhoea and even death, however, people in the Near East, dry and roast the tubers to break down the toxins, and eat it as a delicacy. Cyclamen flower petals are also used around the world to make tea.

Cyclamen 'Smartiz' Mix. Picture courtesy www.ballstraathof.co.zaIn the Garden and Home:

Florist’s cyclamens are hugely popular as houseplants, but if given the right conditions will also flourish outdoors in garden beds or containers. They bloom in autumn, winter and spring, providing colour when little else is flowering, particularly in late winter or early spring.  Cyclamens are highly recommended for window boxes, hanging baskets and pots. They are also ideal for naturalising under trees, on banks or in a shady border, together with other early-flowering woodland plants such as snowdrops and primroses.

Because cyclamens have been bred for more than 150 years, we now have an astounding selection to choose from, in a beautiful range of flower colours. Breeders have concentrated on increasing the extent and intensity of the leaf patterning on the gorgeous heart-shaped leaves. They have also developed all sizes, from small miniature plants which flower profusely to stunning giant varieties, with huge flowers and leaves - and every size in-between! Whether you have space for only one small pot indoors or on your balcony, or want a massed display in the garden, there is a perfect cyclamen just for you.

Cultivation:

Some species of cyclamen are hardier than others, but the florists’ cyclamen is tender to frost. However, it can be grown outdoors in frosty regions as long as the plants are sited beneath evergreen trees and shrubs, or under a roof or overhang, which will protect them from frost.  Also, select a sheltered spot, away from freezing cold winds. If you are planting tubers or potted plants into garden beds, ensure that you do not plant too deep, ensuring that the top of the tuber is still visible above the soil.

Cyclamens growing outdoors thrive in dappled shade, and indoors they like good light but no direct sunlight. Although cyclamens grow extremely well in slightly alkaline soils, they are very tolerant of diverse soil types, as long as they are reasonably fertile and drain well. If you feed your cyclamen during the growing season, using a regular houseplant fertiliser for flowering plants, it will reward you will blooms continually.

The plant is a bit fussy about watering and more plants die from overwatering than under watering, so allow the soil to almost dry out completely before watering. Also, the plant can rot from the crown if watered overhead, making drip irrigation perfect for cyclamens growing in garden beds. Potted plants should be watered from the bottom, or the leaves can be gently lifted and the plant watered around the edge of the pot - not over the tuber. The easiest way to water potted plants is to stand the pot in a shallow drip tray filled with water. Allow the plant to soak up what it needs before discarding the excess water. Do not allow the plant to constantly stand in a tray of water.

Because cyclamens do not like heat, and temperatures above 20°C may induce the plant to go dormant, one of the tricks to growing them successfully is to keep them cool. This is especially important if you are growing them indoors, so keep them well away from heat sources, and do not place them in hot rooms.

To keep plants blooming, remove flowers as they finish by cutting the stems near the base of the plant. Sometimes the petals will fall off and leave a round seed capsule that resembles a flower bud - remove these too, as well as any unsightly yellow or withered leaves.

As the weather warms up in early summer, cyclamens growing in the wild naturally go dormant, but in gardens where they receive summer watering, the leaves may persist. This is not a problem as long as rainfall is not excessive and the soil has perfect drainage. Because it is best to leave the tubers virtually dry during their summer rest period, many gardeners move their potted specimens to a spot outdoors which is sheltered from excessive rainfall and heat. As the growth cycle starts again in autumn, start watering and feeding regularly again.
 
Cyclamen 'Silverado' Purple Flame Mix. Picture courtesy www.ballstraathof.co.zaPropagation:

Cyclamens can be propagated by seed or division of the tubers. Tubers can be gently lifted and divided in winter when the plant is dormant, and seed can be collected at home and sown immediately.

The fruit is a round pod that, at maturity, opens by several flaps or teeth and contains numerous sticky seeds Natural seed dispersal is by ants, which eat the sticky covering and then discard the seeds. So, you need to collect the seed after they are mature, but before the fruit opens. Ripening seed changes colour from white to light brown, turning dark brown when fully mature.  If the plants are happy where they are growing, they will self-seed themselves in the garden.

Since the seeds have no dormancy requirements, they are best sown fresh and will germinate in 2 to 4 weeks. They can also be dried and stored for a year or so if needed, but the longer the seeds have been stored, the more erratic the germination will be. Soak the seeds overnight in warm water before sowing. Use a mixture of equal parts seed compost and washed river sand, and cover the seeds carefully with a thin layer of fine compost, as light can inhibit germination. Mist the soil to moisten it lightly, and cover the container in a clear plastic bag.

Keep in light shade, at a minimum temperature of 16°C. The germinating seeds will first form a small tuber, followed by a single leaf, and at this early stage they can be planted into small, 6-pack seedling trays to grow on until they are transplanted into their individual pots. With good care, your cyclamen should start to flower in about 18 months, at which point they can be planted into the garden.

Pests & Diseases:

If cared for properly, cyclamens are relatively pest and disease free, but they are susceptible to botrytis or grey mould, which occurs mostly in cool, humid conditions. If you notice this greyish growth on your plants, spray the plant thoroughly with a fungicide, and remove the dead leaves and flowers. They can occasionally be attacked by aphids, thrips and mites, but these are easily controlled with organic sprays.

Caution: Cyclamen is toxic to dogs and cats. If ingested, this plant can cause increased salivation, vomiting, and diarrhoea. If an animal ingests a large amount of the plant’s tubers, heart rhythm abnormalities, seizures, and even death can occur. Raw cyclamen tubers are poisonous to people too, so keep them away from small children and pets.

African Violets are popular worldwide and are grown for their profusion of single or double flowers almost all year round.

Grow them in a warm, bright room. Their leaves scorch in direct sunlight. Water them from the bottom drip tray or around the top rim of the pot. Empty the drip tray when the soil is moist. Keep the soil from drying out totally, but do not over water.

Do not wet the leaves, but rather remove dust by brushing the leaves with a soft brush. Feed African Violets every two weeks in summer, but allow your plant to rest without food in the winter.  Re-pot every two years into a slightly bigger container, using special African Violet Soil from your nursery.

These cheerful South African plants will produce flowers for many months in summer if placed in a warm room with bright light. They are specially bred to grow indoors and dont like too much direct sun, but a touch of morning sun won't harm them.

Water them regularly in summer, less in winter and feed them every two weeks when they are in full bloom. Barberton Daisies require very well drained soil, so mix one part good potting soil with one part washed river sand to ensure good drainage.  They will grow +-30cm tall +-30cm wide.

They can be grown outdoors in summer in pots, window boxes, and even in the garden if the above requirements are met. Try planting them in pots on the patio, or in rows in window boxes at your entrance. They are bound to attract attention with their unusual colors.

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These alluring pot plants originate in East Asia and there are about 40 species. In China they symbolise longevity and happiness and have been cultivated for over 2,500 years.

Their exquisite shapes and kaleidoscope of colours ensure that there is the perfect shade to match your decor. Chrysanthemums are available year round and will bloom indoors for about 4 weeks, without breaking the budget.

Place them in a warm, bright position indoors; some direct sunlight will not harm them. Keep the soil moist but not soggy; but never allow the plant to wilt from lack of water. The trick is to water them thoroughly and then to allow the soil to almost totally dry out before watering again.

When they have finished flowering indoors you can prune them down and plant them into the garden. Chrysanthemums prefer fertile well-drained soil and full sun. In extremely hot, dry regions you can plant them in semi-shade; try to shelter them from the fierce midday heat. To increase bloom production pinch out the new growth each time it reaches 15cm long.

Chrysanthemums bloom prolifically and are therefore heavy feeders, so fertilise regularly in the growing season. The plants can be propagated from cuttings or by division of the plants in spring.

Crotons are native to tropical Asia and the western Pacific region.

They are grown for their vibrantly coloured leaves in many amazing shades and combinations of colours. Their leaves also vary in shape and size. Drooping clusters of small star-shaped yellow flowers appear in summer.

They require a warm position indoors with bright light, but no direct sun. Crotons hate draughts and sudden changes in temperature. Water regularly in summer, less in winter and feed every two weeks in summer. Spray the leaves with tepid water often, to increase humidity around the plant. 

These plants are grown outdoors in moist, humid, sub-tropical regions in semi-shade to sun. Plant them in rich, well-drained soil and they will grow quickly to +-1.8m tall and +-1.2m wide, depending on the variety.

Condensed Version:

Peace lilies are one of the most commonly known houseplants and also one of the easiest to grow. They will grow outdoors in warmer climates, thriving in moist, humid, frost free regions. In these regions they must be sited in semi-shade and protected from strong sunlight and strong winds. Exposure to direct light may cause yellowing leaves with a burnt appearance. Ensure that the soil is rich and drains well.

The dark-green, glossy leaves are strongly veined and arch away from the plant's base, making the peace lily an attractive foliage plant even when it’s not in bloom, but when in bloom, usually in early summer, it is truly lovely. What we call its flowers are actually pale green spathes, which turn white as they open. The plant produces offsets at the base and in time becomes a dense clump. A number of cultivars, are commercially available, all of which are essentially quite similar. Apart from one peace lily which produces a green flower and another that has variegated leaves, they all produce large green leaves and white flowers. Some have smaller leaves and an abundance of small flowers, while others produce large, glossier leaves and fewer, but much larger flowers. Peace lilies are used extensively as potted plants in shopping malls and offices and are a decorators dream because their lush green foliage compliments most styles, adding freshness to almost any spot in the home, and the striking white flowers will liven up any colour scheme.

Of all the indoor flowering plants, peace lilies are one of the easiest to care for, because they tolerate average indoor conditions better than many house plants. Although peace lilies are known to survive in darker spots in the home and do not like direct sunlight, they will bloom better if given bright, filtered natural light. Peace lilies thrive in fertile, well-drained soil and their fertiliser requirements are quite low, but in order to encourage blooms they must be fed with weakened solutions of liquid fertiliser every four to six weeks in summer. Although peace lilies growing in the wild love water, when potted they prefer an evenly moist soil which drains well, and is never allowed to dry out completely. These tropical plants love humidity, so if you live in a dry climate, creating a humid environment is beneficial to the plant. To do this, place the pot in a drip tray filled with small pebbles and water. The water will slowly evaporate and create more moisture in the air surrounding the plant, and the pebbles will ensure that the pot is not standing in the water, which can cause root rot. Mist spraying the leaves with water regularly will also help tremendously, and is especially important in dry climates and in air conditioned rooms. Unattractive leaves can be removed by following the leaf stem to the base of the plant and cutting it off at soil level. Spent blooms are removed in the same way.

Full Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

Peace lilies are one of the most commonly known houseplants and also one of the easiest to grow. They may also be grown outdoors in frost free conditions. The NASA Clean Air Study found that these plants are fantastic for improving air quality indoors because they have one of the top removal rates of toxic solvents like formaldehyde, ammonia, benzene and carbon monoxide.

Of all the species found in the genus Spathiphyllum, all but three are found only in the New World Neotropics. The remaining three species are found in the Philippine and Molucca Islands, New Guinea, Palau, New Britain, and the Solomon Islands, while all the rest are found from tropical Mexico through Central and South America. The hybrids sold today originated from specimens gathered by collectors who went to South America in the 1800’s seeking new and interesting “house plants” for European growers. Spathiphyllum wallisii was discovered in the late 19th century growing wild in Central America, and is one of approximately 40 species of flowering plants in the family Araceae or arum family, which also includes Anthurium and Philodendron. These plants are members of a genus that loves water since they grow wild in the rain forests and commonly grow in and along the margins of streams and rivers; forming large colonies that are interconnected by their rhizomes. The genus also favours partially or periodically flooded forests, sometimes in sites with relatively low light intensities. The plants can naturally withstand abuse because in their natural habitat, they must survive through the dry season, which at times requires them to survive when little water is available.
The dark-green, glossy leaves are strongly veined and arch away from the plant's base, making the peace lily an attractive foliage plant even when it’s not in bloom, but when in bloom, usually in early summer, it is truly lovely. What we call its flowers are actually pale green spathes, which turn white as they open. Spathes are large sheathing bracts enclosing the flower spadix of certain plants. The spadix is a spike of minute flowers closely arranged around a fleshy axis and a characteristic of arum lilies.

Peace lilies in full bloom are sold in garden centres virtually all year round because growers use a chemical known as gibberellic acid to induce the plants to bloom, regardless of the season. Gibberellic acid is a natural plant hormone and is used in agriculture to stimulate both cell division and cell elongation that affects the leaves as well as the stems of a plant. A number of cultivars, are commercially available, all of which are essentially quite similar. Apart from one peace lily which produces a green flower and another that has variegated leaves, they all produce large green leaves and white flowers. Some have smaller leaves and an abundance of small flowers, while others produce large, glossier leaves and fewer, but much larger flowers.

Spathiphyllum 'Sensation' Picture courtesy www.tuberflora.co.zaUses:

Peace lilies are used extensively as potted plants in shopping malls and offices and are renowned for improving air quality indoors. They are also sold by florists and make excellent gifts.

In the Garden and Home:

Peace lilies can be planted out into the garden or containers in frost free regions of the country. Indoors, they are a decorators dream because their lush green foliage compliments most styles, adding freshness to almost any spot in the home, and the striking white flowers will liven up any colour scheme.

Cultivation:

Of all the indoor flowering plants, peace lilies are one of the easiest to care for, because they tolerate average indoor conditions better than many house plants. However, most indoor plants are killed by either too much water, too little water or too much fertiliser and peace lilies are no different. Give this plant the right position indoors, water and feed correctly, and you will have a winner.

Although peace lilies are known to survive in darker spots in the home and do not like direct sunlight, they will bloom better if given bright, filtered natural light. Peace lilies thrive in fertile, well-drained soil and their fertiliser requirements are quite low, but in order to encourage blooms they must be fed with weakened solutions of liquid fertiliser (follow the instructions for indoor plants) eveyr four to six weeks in summer.  Leaves with brown spots may be the result of over-fertilization (concentration could be too high).

Although peace lilies growing in the wild love water, when potted they prefer an evenly moist soil which drains well, and is never allowed to dry out completely. To simulate the dry season in their natural habitat, water potted plants less frequently in winter. Generally, in summer, watering your peace lily once a week should be sufficient. However, when the plant is grown in low light levels or cooler temperatures water requirements will be less.  With brighter light levels or warmer temperatures and during periods of rapid growth, water requirements will increase. Test the soil before watering by sticking your finger into the potting soil up to the first knuckle and if the soil is still moist, don’t water. Overwatering may cause leaves to turn yellow and under watering may cause plants to wilt and the leaf edges to turn yellow or brown. If your plant does wilt badly, it will quickly recover if the pot is soaked in in a bucket of water for a while.

These tropical plants love humidity, so if you live in a dry climate, creating a humid environment is beneficial to the plant. To do this, place the pot in a drip tray filled with small pebbles and water. The water will slowly evaporate and create more moisture in the air surrounding the plant, and the pebbles will ensure that the pot is not standing in the water, which can cause root rot. Mist spraying the leaves with water regularly will also help tremendously, and is especially important in dry climates and in air conditioned rooms. Always use tepid water when watering or misting, and this is especially important during cold weather. Keep the leaves dust-free by wiping them with a damp cloth or by washing them down with a soft spray of water in the bath or sink. Unattractive leaves can be removed by following the leaf stem to the base of the plant and cutting it off at soil level. Spent blooms are removed in the same way.

Peace lilies should be re-potted when the root growth has filled the container. To help the roots to retain soil and prevent root tearing, re-pot the plant when the soil is somewhat moist. Select a container about one to two sizes bigger than the current one. Cover the drainage holes in your new pot with crocks or pebbles and lay down a layer of fresh potting soil. When placing the peace lily in its new pot, keep the plant at the same depth as it was in the old pot while filling with fresh soil around the plant. Gently press the soil down until the plant is firmly planted. Water well and wait a couple of weeks before feeding again.

Peace lilies will grow outdoors in warmer climates, thriving in moist, humid, frost free regions. In these regions they must be sited in semi-shade and protected from strong sunlight and strong winds. Exposure to direct light may cause yellowing leaves with a burnt appearance. Ensure that the soil is rich and drains well.

Peace Lilies are good candidates for hydroponics (a method of growing plants without soil) but are susceptible to chlorine damage in tap water, so allow the water to stand awhile before watering to allow the chlorine to evaporate. Distilled water and rainwater can also be used.

Spathiphyllum wallisii 'Chopin' Picture courtesy www.tuberflora.co.zaPropagation:

You can create new peace lily plants by dividing them. Propagate by removing the plant from its container and gently shaking off the excess soil while gently teasing the sections apart. A sharp knife can be used to cut through some sections if necessary. Ensure that each divided section has sufficient roots. Re-pot into small pots to start off, using a rich, well-drained potting soil.

Problems, Pests & Diseases:

Without natural predators around, all house plants can succumb to insect problems, but these are very minimal with peace lilies. They can be susceptible to insects like aphids, black scale, spider mites and mealy bugs.  Insect problems can be taken care of with insecticides, insecticidal soap or by washing the plant with water.

Many gardeners and growers attribute the death of peace lilies to excessive watering, but although this may often be the case, the main reason for the demise of most plants is a combination of poor soil that is kept soggy, poor light conditions, near constant neglect and a lack of nutrients, or at the other extreme, an overdose of fertiliser. Overwatering may cause leaves to turn yellow and under watering may cause plants to wilt and the leaf edges to turn yellow or brown. Root rot, leaf spot and bacterial soft rot can occur in peace lilies, but are usually the result of improper care and bad drainage

If you are feeding your plant but it still does not bloom well, you need to move it to a location with bright, filtered light. Older plants may also just need to be re-potted or divided. This is one of the few plants that bloom’s better after dividing it.

If the leaves become shrivelled and dry, the humidity is too low; and if the leaf tips start to brown, it can be a result of direct sun, over-fertilising or under-watering.

Warning:

True lilies from the Liliaceae family are much more toxic to cats and dogs than the peace lily, which is not a true lily and is only mildly toxic to humans and animals when ingested. The Peace Lily contains calcium oxalate crystals, which can cause skin irritation, a burning sensation in the mouth, difficulty swallowing, and nausea, so keep it away from children and pets who may play with or chew on it.

Condensed Version:

Poinsettia is a small deciduous tropical tree or shrub with dark green dentate leaves. Today there are over 100 cultivated varieties of poinsettia and they are immensely popular garden plants in tropical or subtropical gardens. In these regions it becomes a woody perennial that can be pruned into a shrub or small tree up to 4m high. Plant them in full sun and in well-drained soil; fertilise monthly during the growing season with a balanced fertiliser for flowers and prune hard after they have finished blooming.

The coloured bracts are most commonly red but can be orange, lime-green, cream, pink, white or marbled; the small clusters of yellow flowers are unassuming. In areas outside their natural environment poinsettias are commonly grown as indoor pot plants. They are easy to maintain and will last for a few months indoors making them popular Christmas decorations. Poinsettias are mostly disposed of once they start to fade, but you can keep them all year and the bracts will colour up again if they are cared for correctly.  

Because poinsettias are tropical plants, in cold regions they are grown in greenhouses at temperatures of about 17 to 20°C, so this temperature range in the home is best for long plant life. Place your potted poinsettia near a sunny window or any well-lit area, out of direct sunlight. Ensure that the spot you have chosen is not too hot because high temperatures will shorten the Pink and Cream Poinsettia. Image by sandid from Pixabaylife of the bracts. Poinsettias also don’t like hot or cold drafts, so keep them away from fans as well as open windows or doors.

The flowering life of the plants is extended by humidity, so mist your plants regularly with tepid water. The most common mistake is too over water them indoors; causing the leaves to turn yellow and drop. Allow the soil to dry out between watering, but examine the soil every day because under watering will cause the plant to wilt, and the lower leaves will drop. Always water enough to soak the soil to the bottom of the pot but it is very important to discard the excess water from the drip tray or your plant will rot. If you keep your plant for several months, apply a soluble high potassium houseplant fertiliser once a month.

Full Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

Poinsettia is a small deciduous tropical tree or shrub of the diverse spurge family; cultivated for its striking red bracts, with potted forms being the basis of a lucrative Christmas industry. It derives its common English name from the first United States Minister to Mexico, Joel Roberts Poinsett, who introduced the plant into the United States in 1825. 

It is indigenous to Mexico where it grows wild in deciduous tropical forests, at moderate elevations from southern Sinaloa down the entire Pacific coast of Mexico to Chiapas and Guatemala. It is also found in the Red and White Poinsettia. Image by Michael Bubmann from Pixabayinterior, in the hot and seasonally dry forests of Guerrero, Oaxaca, and Chiapas.

The plant's association with Christmas began in 16th century Mexico, where legend tells of a girl who was too poor to provide a gift for the celebration of Jesus' birthday. The tale goes that the child was inspired by an angel to gather weeds from the roadside and place them in front of the church altar. Crimson "blossoms" sprouted from the weeds and became beautiful poinsettias. Franciscan friars in Mexico included the plants in their Christmas celebrations - the star-shaped leaf pattern is said to symbolize the star of Bethlehem, and the red colour the blood sacrifice through the crucifixion of Jesus.

In the language of the Aztecs the plant is called Cuetlaxochitl; meaning "flower that grows in residues or soil;" and they used it to produce red dye and medicinally to treat pain and fever. Today it is known in Mexico as "Noche Buena," meaning “flower of Christmas Eve. “ In Spain, Puerto Rico, Guatemala and other Central America countries it is known as "Flor de Pascua" or "Pascua" meaning "Easter flower." In Chile and Peru, the plant became known as "Crown of the Andes". 

Atatürk, the founder of the Republic of Turkey loved poinsettia, and it soon became widespread in cultivation there and today it is still called "Atatürk's flower." The poinsettia has also been cultivated in Egypt since the 1860s.

Poinsettia in the garden. Image By Thanks for Your like Donations welcome from PixabayAlbert Ecke, who immigrated to America from Germany in 1900 and settled in Los Angeles became so intrigued with poinsettias that he started selling them from street stands, and later his son Paul developed the grafting technique, but it was the third generation of Eckes, Paul Ecke Jr. who was responsible for marketing the association between the plant and Christmas; sending free plants to television stations to decorate their sets from Thanksgiving to Christmas. He also appeared on television programs like The Tonight Show and Bob Hope's Christmas specials to promote the plants. Needless to say this brilliant marketing strategy paid off and the Ecke family moved their operation to Encinitas, California in 1923.

There they developed a technique that made their plants much more attractive for indoor decoration because it produced a fuller more compact plant by grafting two varieties of poinsettia together. This technique ensured that they kept the monopoly of the poinsettia market until a university researcher discovered the method previously known only to the Eckes and published it, allowing competitors to flourish. The family's business, now led by Paul Ecke III, decided to stop producing plants in the U.S. but as of 2008, they still served about 70% of the domestic market and 50% of the worldwide market. In the United States December the 12th is known as National Poinsettia Day and currently the USA exports about 90% of the world’s poinsettia plants.

In the Home & Garden:

Today there are over 100 cultivated varieties of poinsettia and they are widely grown and immensely popular garden plants in tropical or subtropical gardens. In these regions it becomes a woody perennial that can be pruned into a shrub or small tree up to 4m high. The dark green leaves are dentate and the coloured bracts are most commonly red but can be orange, lime-green, cream, pink, white or marbled. The small clusters of yellow flowers are unassuming and do not attract pollinators.

In areas outside their natural environment poinsettias are commonly grown as indoor pot plants. They are easy to maintain and will last for a few months indoors making them popular Christmas decorations in homes, churches and offices; and a great gift idea. When selecting your potted poinsettia, make sure that the plant is full with a balanced shape and has dark green leaves right down to the soil line. To check its maturity look at the true little yellow flowers located at the base of the coloured bracts; if the flowers are green or red-tipped and fresh looking the bloom will “hold” longer than if yellow pollen is covering the flowers. Be careful when transporting poinsettias from the shop to your home because the branches break easily.

Sometimes a poinsettia will start wilting once you get it home, and continue to deteriorate, no matter what you do. This could be due to the plant having been over or under watered or kept in unsuitable conditions Coral Pink Poinsettia. Image by Mattias Bockel from Pixabayin shop before you bought it. Unfortunately there is little you can do about this; so buying from reputable suppliers is recommended. Poinsettias are mostly disposed of once they start to fade, but you can keep them all year and the bracts will colour up again if they are cared for correctly.

Cultivation:

In warm frost free regions poinsettias will thrive outdoors if planted in fertile, well-drained soil. Plant them in full sun, fertilise monthly during the growing season with a balanced fertiliser for flowers and prune hard after they have finished blooming.

Because poinsettias are tropical plants, in cold regions they are grown in greenhouses at temperatures of about 17 to 20°C, so this temperature range in the home is best for long plant life. Place your potted poinsettia near a sunny window or any well-lit area, but keep it out of direct sunlight.  Ensure that the spot you have chosen is not too hot because high temperatures will shorten the life of the bracts. Poinsettias also don’t like hot or cold drafts, so keep them away from fans as well as open windows or doors. The flowering life of the plants is extended by humidity, so mist your plants regularly with tepid water.

The most common mistake is too over water them indoors; causing the leaves to turn yellow and drop. Allow the soil to dry out between watering, but examine the soil every day because under watering will cause the plant to wilt, and the lower leaves will drop. Always water enough to soak the soil to the bottom of the pot but it is very important to discard the excess water from the drip tray or your plant will rot. If you keep your plant for several months, apply a soluble high potassium houseplant fertiliser once a month.

Pink Poinsettia. Image by Constance Kowalik from PixabayPoinsettias in the wild flower in winter and the colouring  of the bracts is created through photoperiodism, meaning that they require darkness (12 hours at a time for at least 5 days in a row) to change colour. At the same time, the plants require abundant light during the day for the brightest colour. To force them to flower in summer, and especially at Christmas, South African growers trick them into believing its winter by blocking out all light in their growing tunnels early in the afternoon to simulate the longer nights and shorter days of winter.

Poinsettias are often disappointing in their second year but if you care for them correctly they can put on a good display again; especially in the warmer regions of the country. Weather you keep your poinsettia in a pot or plant it into the garden it will revert back to flowering in the winter and it is best to let it do this rather than attempting to get it to flower again next Christmas. Prune back the stems hard after they have finished blooming, removing all the old red flowering ones. New growth will emerge from buds located in the leaf axils, and cutting will cause the buds to grow and develop. Move the plant outdoors into a sheltered spot with light filtered sunlight; and in cold regions return it to the house in autumn - well before the first frost. Place it in a room which is not used at night to simulate a period of uninterrupted long, dark nights in order to develop flowers; incidental light at night during this time will hamper flower production. During the day move it to a bright position indoors and don’t forget to continue feeding to encourage flowering.

If the plant is too large for the old pot, repot it into a larger pot after pruning, using a well-drained potting soil. You can also prepare your own growing medium, using 2 parts sterilised garden soil, 1 part peat moss and 1 part sand, vermiculite or perlite, plus a generous dressing of bone meal.

Propagation:

Creamy white Poinsettia. Image by PublicDomainPictures from PixabayPoinsettias can be propagated by softwood cuttings in early summer, but make sure you wear gloves, as the milky sap can be an irritant.

Pests & Diseases:

Problems may include whitefly, mealybugs, red spider mites and scale. Root or stem rots can also occur if overwatered.

Caution:

In the United States and perhaps elsewhere, there is a common misconception that the poinsettia is highly toxic. This misconception was spread by a 1919 urban legend of a two-year-old child dying after consuming a poinsettia leaf.

The sap and latex of many plants of the spurge genus are toxic, but the poinsettia's toxicity is relatively mild. Its latex can cause an allergic reaction in sensitive individuals and it is also mildly irritating to the skin or stomach and may cause diarrhoea and vomiting if eaten. Studies have shown that a strong majority of poinsettia exposures are accidental, involve children, and usually do not result in any type of medical treatment. POISINDEX, a major source for poison control centres, says a 50-pound child would have to eat 500 bracts to accumulate levels of toxins found to be harmful in experiments; and according to the American Medical Association’s Handbook of Poisonous and Injurious Plants, other than occasional cases of vomiting, ingestion of the poinsettia plant has been found to produce no effect.

Be careful when pruning this plant because the sap introduced into the human eye may cause temporary blindness.

Condensed Version:

The exquisite moth orchids are popular among novice and experienced growers alike because they are easy to grow and adaptable to many different types of environments. Most are epiphytic shade plants (epiphytic plants derive moisture and nutrients from the air and rain; usually growing on another plants but not parasitic on them). Modern breeding programs have brought about enormous changes in plants for the mass market, with true miniature plants flowering in 6cm pots, to multi-floral types that bloom several times a year, to large plants with enormous leaf spans and flower stems up to 1m long. Besides the commonly seen pink and white varieties, hybrids with yellow, red and purple shades are also available.

Moth orchids generally like the light and temperature condition of our homes; making them an excellent choice for first time orchid growers; and most suitable for city dwellers who have limited space, or no garden at all. Orchids have the added advantage of being one of the few plants that produce oxygen at night, so are highly recommended for bedrooms. It is also possible to grow moth orchids outdoors in warm frost-free and Mediterranean climates; and if properly cared for they can be among the showiest and most exotic of all garden or patio plants.

Phalaenopsis are low light orchids, and although light is quite vital to the well-being of the plant, ensure that the plant is not in direct sunlight as this will cause the leaves to burn. On the other hand, specimens grown in very dark areas tend to grow floppy dark green leaves and rarely flower. The leaves should be olive green; if they are darker it means the plant is not getting enough light; red tinged leaves mean the plant is getting too much light. Once the plant is in bloom you can place it anywhere in your home out of direct sunlight and draughts. Moth orchids like high humidity (60 to 70%) so mist your plant regularly with tepid water and use a shallow tray of pebbles filled with water to increase humidity around your plants, but ensure that the pot does not sit in water. The higher the humidity, the more important it is to maintain a good air flow around the roots and leaves. Keep in mind that temperatures close to the window on a windowsill will be colder or hotter than your general house temperature; and fluctuating temperatures can cause bud drop on plants with buds ready to open.

These orchids are usually potted in a well-drained bark mixture but can also be cultivated in sphagnum moss, or mounted on wood. One of the most deadly blunders that new growers make is to over water; and this together with bad drainage will cause the roots to deteriorate and eventually rot, killing the plant. How often you water will depend on the potting medium and how much light and heat your plant receives. Bark retains less water than moss; so if your orchid is potted in bark watering once a week is generally sufficient. Moss retains more water, so watering will be less often, or when the moss feels dry. During the growth season, water the plant whenever its exposed roots turn silvery white; and during the flowering season, you can cut the water back to every other week. Use tepid water (rainwater is excellent) but do not use salt-softened or distilled water. Let the water run through the plant for a minute or so; and be sure to let the plant drain completely afterwards; wiping away any water which may have collected in the centre of the plant to prevent crown rot. During the growing season, fertilise with a specialist orchid fertiliser as directed, but feed sparingly during the winter months. The plants do need the occasional 'flushing out'; so with every fourth watering use only plain water (with no fertiliser) to ensure that any potentially harmful accumulations of salts are leached from the potting medium.

Successful growth means finding the right balance between humidity, temperature, light and air flow.

Full Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

The exquisite moth orchids are popular among novice and experienced growers alike because they are easy to grow and produce the elegant arching sprays of long-lasting blooms that can be seen in so many design magazines across the world. The name Phalaenopsis is derived from the Greek and means "resembling a moth." It was so named because the white and pink species growing on trees in the wild resemble flights of moths at twilight.

Phalaenopsis is a genus of approximately 60 species of orchids from the tropics, but from widely diverse climates within the tropics. Some species come from seasonally dry areas in Thailand or Burma; while others are wet-rainforest species from the Philippines, Malaysia or Indonesia. They are native throughout south-east Asia from the Himalayan Mountains to the islands of Polillo and Palawan of the Philippines, and northern Australia. Orchid Island off Taiwan is named after this orchid.

 In tropical climates they tend to grow on tree branches and between rocks, usually near a source of water for moisture.  Aside from rainforest climates, they also grow in grassland areas such as pastures. These orchids are adaptable to many different types of environments which is one of the reasons they are so easy to maintain!

Most are epiphytic shade plants (epiphytic plants derive moisture and nutrients from the air and rain; usually growing on another plants, but not parasitic on them) a few are lithophytes (plants that grow on rocks, deriving their nourishment chiefly from the atmosphere.) In the wild they are typically found below the canopies of moist and humid lowland forests, protected against direct sunlight, but equally in seasonally dry or cool environments. The species have adapted individually to these habitats.

Moth orchids were among the first tropical orchids to be grown in Victorian collections; and most of the Phalaenopsis plants offered for sale today are the result of many generations of breeding from species that are native to eastern Asia.  Because these hybrids are one of the easiest orchids to grow in the home and flower well under artificial conditions, moth orchids quickly became one of the most popular orchids sold as potted plants. Under optimal growing conditions, and once mature, these hybrids generally bear from twelve to twenty (and quite often more) flowers. 

Modern breeding programs have brought about enormous changes in plants for the mass market, with true miniature plants flowering in 6cm pots, to multi-floral types that flower several times a year, to large plants with enormous leaf spans and flower stems up to 1m long. There is a moth orchid for almost any culture, space, condition and colour taste. Besides the commonly seen pink and white varieties; advances in hybridizing have produced yellow, red and purple shades as well. Although many new hybrids are introduced every year, most Phalaenopsis offered for sale are unnamed hybrids and only specialist orchid growers will offer named species and hybrids.

Phalaenopsis schilleriana and Phalaenopsis stuartiana are two species that produce multitudes of flowers; and the small novelty types such as Phalaenopsis sumatrana, Phalaenopsis bellina/violacea, and Phalaenopsis lueddemanniana bear fewer flowers on much shorter stems. Phalaenopsis schilleriana produces deep rose-pink blooms flushed with white up to 8cm across, with silver-mottled dark green leaves. Phalaenopsis equestris produces clusters of 10 to 15 small pink flowers, each 2.5cm across, with fresh green leaves. Phalaenopsis cornu-cervi has spidery yellow flowers spotted with dark red, each 2.5 to 3.5cm across, in clusters of about 12 blooms that open successively. 

Phalaenopsis is a monopodial orchid that grows from a single stem. Orchids with monopodial growth often produce copious aerial roots that hang down in long drapes and have green chlorophyll underneath the grey root coverings, which are used as additional photosynthetic organs. Because they do not have a rhizome or pseudo bulbs, the species adapted to dry periods by evolving fleshy succulent leaves instead. Flowers generally come from the stem between the leaves; and the plant produces about two sets of alternate, thick and fleshy elliptical leaves a year; the older basal leaves drop off at the same rate; so the plant commonly retains only four to five leaves all the time; if very healthy, they can have up to ten or more leaves.

In the Home & Garden:

Moth orchids are quite easy to grow, and generally like the light and temperature condition of our homes, making them an excellent choice for ‘first time’ orchid growers, and most suitable for city dwellers who have limited space. If kept in the home, moth orchid flowers usually last two to three months, which is considered quite a long time; mature specimens grown in ideal conditions can bloom for much of the year.

The modern home is prone to all manner of insidious toxins, such as formaldehyde (from carpets, plywood, flat-pack furniture and insulation materials); benzene (from particleboard and some paints); propanol (cleaning products); and dichloromethane (paint thinners and strippers), whose effects can range from mild eye, nose and throat irritations to more serious conditions.

We can all probably remember enough biology to know that plants take in carbon dioxide and give off health-giving oxygen and water vapour as part of the photosynthesis process. It might seem unlikely that mere houseplants could provide a defence, but studies have found some to be particularly effective.

Orchids in particular have the added advantage of being one of the few plants that produce oxygen at night, so the moth orchid is therefore highly recommended for bedrooms. It is also possible to grow moth orchids outdoors in warm frost-free and Mediterranean climates; and if properly cared for they can be among the showiest and most exotic of all garden or patio plants.

Growing moth orchids indoors:

If kept in the home, moth orchid flowers usually last two to three months, but mature specimens grown in ideal conditions can bloom for much of the year. An added advantage of growing orchids is that they are one of the few plants that continue producing oxygen at night, and are therefore highly recommended for bedrooms.

When grown indoors it is pertinent to remember that in nature moth orchids are typically fond of warm temperatures between 20 to 35°C, and although they are adaptable to temperatures ranging from 15 to 35°C, at temperatures below 18°C watering should be reduced to avoid the risk of root rot. Flowering is triggered by a night-time drop in temperature of around 5 to 6 degrees over 2 to 4 consecutive weeks, usually in autumn.

One of the most important points to consider when growing moth orchids is light, and although light is quite vital to the well-being of the plant, Phalaenopsis are essentially low light orchids, and direct sunlight will cause the leaves to burn. The leaves should be olive green, and if they are darker it means the plant is not getting enough light. On the other hand, red tinged leaves mean the plant is getting too much light. Once the plant is in bloom you can place it anywhere in your home to show it off, as long as the area is out of direct sunlight and draughts.

Moth orchids like high humidity (60 to 70%) so mist your plant regularly with tepid water and use a shallow tray of pebbles filled with water to increase humidity around your plants, but ensure that the pot does not sit in water. A humidifier is also most effective indoors. The higher the humidity, the more important it is to maintain a good air flow around the roots and leaves. Keep in mind that temperatures close to a window on a windowsill will be colder or hotter than your general house temperature; and fluctuating temperatures can cause bud drop on plants with buds ready to open.

These orchids are usually potted in a well-drained bark mixture but can also be potted in sphagnum moss or mounted on wood. One of the most deadly blunders that new growers make is to overwater, and this  together with bad drainage will cause the roots to deteriorate and eventually rot, killing the plant.

How often you water will depend on the potting medium and how much light and heat your plant receives. Bark retains less water than moss; so if your orchid is potted in bark watering once a week is generally sufficient. Moss retains more water, so watering will be less frequent, or when the moss feels dry. During the growth season, water the plant whenever its exposed roots turn silvery white, usually weekly. During the flowering season, you can cut the water back to every other week.

It is best to water in the morning, and to prevent crown rot, and indoors it is good to wipe away any water which may collect in the centre of the plant. Use tepid water (rainwater is excellent) but do not use salt-softened or distilled water. Let the water run through the plant for a minute or so, and be sure to let the plant drain completely afterwards.

During the growing season fertilise with a specialist orchid fertiliser as directed, but feed sparingly during the winter months. The plants do need the occasional 'flushing out', so with every fourth watering use only plain water (with no fertiliser) to ensure that any potentially harmful accumulations of salts are leached from the potting medium

When the blooms are finished, you can cut the spike down to the level of the leaves and the plant will bloom again within a year. You can also cut off the stem leaving two nodes on the stem (nodes are those little brown lines on the stem below where the flowers were.) One of these nodes may initiate and produce flowers again within 8 to 12 weeks. Continue watering and fertilising while you are waiting for the blooming cycle to begin again. If a plant is large and healthy but does not produce flowers in a reasonable time, then reduce the temperature by 5°C for four weeks, and a flower spike will usually develop.

For healthy root growth, repot every couple of years before the potting mix has started to disintegrate. Do this when the plant has finished blooming but do not be tempted to repot into too large a pot, rather choose a pot just large enough to contain the roots. Do not try to bury the fleshy white aerial roots that extend above the pot, as they are prone to rotting.

Moth orchid. Image by Albrecht Fietz from PixabayGrowing moth orchids outdoors:

It is also possible to grow moth orchids outdoors in warm, humid, frost-free, and Mediterranean climates, and if properly cared for they can be among the showiest and most exotic of all garden or patio plants.

Moth orchids are epiphytes and cannot be planted directly in the ground outdoors; rather mount them on trees, wooden stumps or rocks, or grow them in containers, hanging baskets, or raised beds, filled with a potting media specifically formulated for these orchids. When mounting or planting your orchids take extra care to make sure the plants are tilted so that water quickly runs out of the crowns.

Growing plants in sphagnum moss in slatted baskets is another very successful way to cultivate moth orchids outdoors, because for those species that want extra moisture the roots will stay inside the moist moss; and for those which require drier roots, the roots will naturally head out onto the basket surfaces and sometimes even grow completely outside the moss

Moth orchids scorch easily in the sun and should be grown in good light but complete shade. Although they like good ventilation around their roots and leaves, they will need protection from strong winds and excessive rainfall. Moth orchids grown outdoors will also need regular watering during dry periods and fertilising with a specific orchid food. While regular watering is appreciated, wet and soggy roots systems and media are to be avoided. Successful growth outdoors means finding the right balance between humidity, temperature, light, and air flow.

Propagation:

Sometimes small plantlets (keiki) appear from the nodes on the flower stems. Detach the plantlets when they have developed several good roots and pot them up in orchid mix. Water sparingly at first, but mist spray daily. Production of offsets can be encouraged by application of keiki paste (a specialist hormone preparation obtained from specialist orchid suppliers) to the nodes of the spent flower spike. Ordinary hormone rooting compound will not do. With a scalpel make a vertical cut through the bract covering the node. Do not cut into the bud beneath. With tweezers pull away the two halves of the bract and apply a little keiki paste to the exposed bud. After six to eight weeks little plantlets may be produced.

Problems, Pests & Diseases:

If grown correctly these orchids are more pest free than most genera, but watch out for spider mites, thrips, scale, mealy bugs and aphids.

Bud blasting is a common problem with Phalaenopsis, but fortunately there is almost always a reason that can be determined for this condition. There are many factors that can cause buds to dry up and drop off the plants without ever opening.  Check that the room you are growing your orchid in is not excessively hot and dry or the light level too low. Also, ensure that you are watering correctly and not over fertilising. The plant also dislikes cool draughts and very strong fumes emitted from fresh paint, carpets, refinishing woodwork, etc.

Toxicity:

The moth orchid is non-toxic to humans, dogs, cats and horses, but it is always advisable to supervise young children and pets around plants.