Welcome to Gardening in South Africa!

Picture courtesy Jonathan CohenThese unforgettable natives of Chile form dense bushes of feathery foliage which is smothered in a profusion of butterfly-like flowers in winter and spring. They are wonderful cut-flowers with an infinite range of patterns and colours; from pink, blue, violet, lavender, magenta, white, yellow, orange, gold, red and salmon. They make excellent border plants to the winter flower garden and grow exceptionally well in containers, because they bloom best when their roots are restricted. Fill your window boxes and containers with them for a dazzling display.

Picture courtesy Jonathan CohenThese annual plants grow well throughout South Africa, except those areas that experience severe frost. They thrive in cool, yet sunny positions, so plant them in sun to light shade in cool regions and in hotter regions plant them in semi-shade. They must have perfect drainage and good soil that is high in organic matter. Water them regularly in the summer rainfall regions and protect them from strong wind. Hybrid plants vary in height from 20 to 40cm tall.

Seeds are sown in seed trays in late summer and will germinate within about 3 days in ideal soil temperatures between 15 and 22°C. Cover the seeds with vermiculite as they require darkness to germinate. Seedlings should start blooming within 10 to 12 weeks after sowing.

Condensed VerPicture courtesy Andrew Jorgensension:

Satin flowers are easy to grow in full sun to semi-shade, and vary in height from 30 to 90cm tall. They are available in pastel shades of rose to pink, peach, deep magenta, lavender and white, darkening at the base of the petals, or shading to white or red. They are good coastal plants but do not do well under hot and humid conditions, so in these regions the seeds are sown in early autumn. They do well in the winter rainfall regions of the country, and inland they are hardy to frost, but need regular watering in winter.

Satin flowers are not as readily available in South Africa as they used to be, but at the time of writing this article, seeds can be bought online at Seeds for Africa as well as other online seed suppliers; and certain growers like Nu-leaf Nursery still sell seedling trays of this beautiful annual. Flower fashions, like all other fashion trends, come and go, but certain flowers like satin flowers will always be available because they have stood the test of time and remain in demand by gardeners around the world.

Seeds are best sown directly into garden beds in autumn or spring when the soil temperatures are between 16 and 18°C. They can also be sown seedling trays, but plants will generally be sturdier if direct-seeded. Cover the seeds lightly with about 2mm of soil and rake the bed lightly. Seeds will take 7 to 15 days to germinate and will bloom about 12 to 18 weeks after sowing.

Although satin flowers thrive in slightly acidic, sandy soils, they tolerate both sandy and clay soils, as well as saline and sodic soils with a pH between 6.0 and 8.0. It is essential that the soil drains well and is not too fertile, as on excessively nutritious soils the plants will produce too much foliage at the expense of the flowers. Also, do not over feed your plants. Satin flowers are drought tolerant, but ensure that you water them regularly in dry regions.

Satin flowers need little maintenance once they are established, but picking them for the vase and clipping out the dead flowers regularly will keep them looking good and blooming for longer. In a suitable location the plants will readily self-seed in the garden.

Full Version:

Godetia Picture courtesy Nu-leaf NurseryDescription, History & Interesting Facts:

Satin flowers are not as readily available in South Africa as they used to be, but at the time of writing this article, seeds can be bought online at Seeds for Africa as well as other online seed suppliers; and certain growers like Nu-leaf Nursery still sell seedling trays of this beautiful annual. Flower fashions, like all other fashion trends, come and go, but certain flowers like satin flowers will always be available because they have stood the test of time and remain in demand by gardeners around the world.

Clarkia amoena is a flowering plant native to western North America where it can be found growing wild in coastal hills and mountains, from British Columbia, Canada, south to the San Francisco Bay Area, California. In northern California they grow in various settings, including coastal prairie, northern coastal scrub, openings in evergreen forests or oak woodlands, and grasslands. In 1895, Will Green, the surveyor-general of California, reported having seen Clarkia flowers of different hues covering the plains.

In Pleasanton, California, a late prehistoric cremation site was discovered containing tens of thousands of charred Clarkia seeds, placed there by Native Americans as offerings, along with remnants of other plants. The seeds are edible, and although they are very small, 20 to 30 pounds of the seeds could be gathered in one day for use as food.  They could be eaten dried, or cooked into a form resembling oat-meal, or blended with water and other ingredients to make a pinole-like beverage.

Clarkia amoena is an annual plant growing to 1m in height, with slender, linear leaves, and four broad petals which can be pink to pale purple. The fruit is a dry capsule, which splits open when mature to release the numerous seeds.

Several members of the genus are still referred to by the common name "godetia", as they were formerly classified in a genus called Godetia. However, Godetia is no longer recognised since its members have been absorbed into the genus Clarkia. Over 40 species are currently classified under Clarkia, and some are very rare. Almost all are native to western North America, especially California, though one species (Clarkia tenella) is native to South America.

In 1804, President Thomas Jefferson sent Meriwether Lewis and William Clark on a Voyage of Discovery across the newly acquired Louisiana Purchase.  While the primary purpose of the trip was largely political and strategic, the men also wanted to learn more about the culture and practices of the Native Americans living there, and also documented the plants and animals they found.                                   

One of the specimens Clark brought back was a unique and beautiful flower, which subsequently was named “Clarkia” in his honour.  Its common name is “Farewell-to-Spring” because in its native habitat it flowers just around the time spring is about to segue into summer. Another one of its common names is “Satin Flower” in reference to the satiny, cup-shaped blooms of this popular cool season annual. 

Today satin flowers are available in beautiful pastel shades of rose to pink, peach, deep magenta, lavender and white, darkening at the base of the petals, or shading to white or red, and some cultivars are selected for their highly dissected petals, giving them a semi-double appearance. 

Modern satin flowers vary in height from 30 to 90cm tall, and because these plants naturally have a lax growth habit and can flop over easily, plant breeders have developed strains which are more compact and free flowering, and for the garden it is often best to select a dwarf variety which does not require staking. Satin flowers will flower in late spring and early to mid-summer, depending on when they are sown.

Clarkia amoena nana ‘Satin’ is a uniform, compact plant that flowers early, producing masses of large flowers in a mixture of lovely pastel shades. It thrives in sun to semi-shade, and will grow 30cm tall and 20cm wide, making it perfect for patio and balcony pots, or as a bedding plant in the garden.

Clarkia ‘Out of this world’ is another compact variety with a mixture of lovely colours, and which grows 30cm tall and 20cm wide, making it great for borders, bedding, cottage gardens and containers

Uses:

Clarkia amoena seeds were parched and then pounded into a dry seed meal and eaten by the Sierra Miwok, who lived in the Sierra Nevada foothills of California.

In the Garden & Home:

Clarkia is so easy to grow if sow directly into garden beds it is recommended for a child’s garden and beginner gardeners.

The Latin name amoena means beautiful or pleasing, and this plant certainly does make a beautiful addition to many types of gardens, and can be added to beds, borders, containers, dry banks, cottage gardens, rock gardens and wildflower meadows.  The new dwarf strains grow extremely well in pots, and the flowers attract bees and butterflies.

Satin flowers make excellent, long-lasting bouquets, and for long lasting fresh flowers, cut the stems long and place them in deep water immediately.

Godetia picture courtesy Nu-leaf NurseryCultivation/Propagation:

Satin Flowers are easy to-grow in full sun to semi-shade. They are good coastal plants but do not do well under hot and humid conditions, so in these regions the seeds are sown in early autumn. They do well in the winter rainfall regions of the country, and inland they are hardy to frost, but need regular watering in winter.

Seeds are best sown directly into garden beds in autumn or spring when the soil temperatures are between 16 and 18°C. They can also be sown in seedling trays, but plants will generally be sturdier if direct-seeded. Cover the seeds lightly with about 2mm of soil and rake the bed lightly. Seeds will take 7 to 15 days to germinate and will bloom about 12 to 18 weeks after sowing.

Although satin flowers thrive in slightly acidic, sandy soils, they tolerate both sandy and clay soils, as well as saline and sodic soils with a pH between 6.0 and 8.0. It is essential that the soil drains well and is not too fertile, as on excessively nutritious soils the plants will produce too much foliage at the expense of the flowers. Also, do not over feed your plants. Satin flowers are drought tolerant, but ensure that you water them regularly in dry regions. These plants like a bit of crowding and bloom best when planted closely together.

Satin flowers need little maintenance once they are established, but picking them for the vase and clipping out the dead flowers regularly will keep them looking good and blooming for longer. In a suitable location the plants will readily self-seed in the garden.

If you wish to save seed, allow the plant to produce its narrow pods that mature to a dark brown. Collect the ripe pods and spread them out away from direct sunlight to dry completely before splitting them open to remove the brown seeds. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place.

Problems, Pests & Diseases:

Satin flowers are generally pest and disease free but watch out for root rot if conditions are very wet and your soil does not have perfect drainage.

The plants are susceptible to powdery mildew, verticillium wilt, stem rot and leaf spot, especially in very humid climates.

In early summer, watch out for common garden insects like aphids, mites and Japanese beetles.

Warning:

Although Clarkia amoena is listed as non-toxic it is always best to discourage children and pets from chewing on plants.

Foxglove Dwarf 'Foxy Mix' Picture courtesy Ball StraathofCondensed Version:

Seedlings of modern foxglove varieties that bloom in their first year are usually planted out in autumn or early spring, and seeds are sown directly into garden beds in autumn to flower the following spring and summer.

Foxgloves prefer cool climatic conditions where rainfall is good, and to be cultivated successfully they require deep, rich, loamy soils and cool root zones. They will grow in semi-shade to sun, but in regions where it gets hot very early in summer, its best to plant them in a cool position. They also do well in sheltered coastal gardens and are hardy to cold and frost. In severe frost regions, first-year plants that have not bloomed yet should be covered with a thick layer of dried leaves or mulch in autumn, before the ground freezes.

This plant will happily grow in temperatures between 12 to 28℃, however, if temperatures reach over 30℃ the plant may start to wilt and die. For this reason they are not well suited to very hot and dry regions, and although they are not too fussy about humidity, in very humid regions they may struggle with fungal diseases.

They must be watered thoroughly during dry spells.  However, they do not tolerate waterlogged soils. Although foxgloves prefer light, moist soils high in organic matter and with good drainage, they will grow in almost any type of soil that is not too dry or overly wet.  They also like slightly acid soils, so add acid compost and even some well-rotted manure to the beds, as well as a sprinkling of 2:3:2 fertilisers. Mix all this into the soil by digging the beds over thoroughly.

Foxgloves respond badly to too much feeding, and if your soil is rich and fertile, and the plants are mulched regularly, extra feeding may not be required at all. However, if your soil is poor, or you are growing in pots, the plants will respond well to regular feeding with a liquid fertiliser for flowering plants.

Protect your plants from strong wind, and although generally there is no need for staking, you can plant stakes if the site is fairly windy, or to protect them from storms.

Seed germinates best in soil temperatures between 15 and 18°C. Don’t sow the seeds too deep just cover them with soil to twice their own thickness. If you keep the soil moist, germination takes place in about 5 to 10 days.

Foxglove 'Camelot Cream' Picture courtesy Nu-leaf NurseryFull Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

The genus Digitalis is native to Western Europe, the Mediterranean region, and northwest Africa, and has some 20 species, most of which are short-lived perennials, but some are biennials. In their native habitat the plants thrive on acidic soils, in partial sunlight to deep shade, and in a range of habitats that includes open woods, woodland clearings, moorland and heath margins, sea-cliffs, rocky mountain slopes, and hedge banks. They are very common on sites where the ground has been disturbed, such as recently cleared woodland, roadside verges, or where the vegetation has been burnt.

Because foxgloves are popular worldwide they have very many common names, including:  vingerhoedjie, purple foxglove, fairy gloves, fairy bells, goblin gloves, witches' gloves, and dead men's bells.

The origins of the name foxglove are unclear, but can be traced all the way back to the Anglo-Saxon period, and the Anglo-Saxon name was “foxes glofa” or “the glove of the fox” because it looked like it would fit a fox’s paw. In folklore it was also said that people believed foxes wore Foxglove flowers on their paws to silence their movements when hunting. Another more plausible one is that foxgloves are often found growing close to the earth where foxes raise their young. The Latin name, “digitalis” comes from the word “digit” or finger, since it was easy to fit a finger inside the flowers.

Foxgloves are also mentioned in various poems, such as A Nocturnal Reverie by Anne Finch, and are the central focus of famous poems, like:

Foxgloves by Mary Webb

The foxglove bells, with lolling tongue,
Will not reveal what peals were rung
In Faery, in Faery,
A thousand ages gone.
All the golden clappers hang
As if but now the changes rang;
Only from the mottled throat
Never any echoes float.
Quite forgotten, in the wood,
Pale, crowded steeples rise;
All the time that they have stood
None has heard their melodies.
Deep, deep in wizardry
All the foxglove belfries stand.
Should they startle over the land,
None would know what bells they be.
Never any wind can ring them,
Nor the great black bees that swing them--
Every crimson bell, down-slanted,
Is so utterly enchanted

Although modern cultivars of foxgloves will bloom in spring and summer if planted or sown in autumn, the old fashioned foxglove can take up to 24 weeks to flower. They grow quickly, forming a rosette of large ovate to lanceolate leaves which are covered with grey-white hairs, imparting a downy texture. In the first year after sowing the foliage forms a tight rosette at ground level, and in its second year it produces long flowering stems about 1 to 2m tall, and sometimes even longer, depending on the variety, before producing copious amounts of seed and dying.

The main bloom time is in spring and early summer but occasionally additional flower stems are produced later in the season, especially if the main flower stalks are cut after blooming. Pollinated flowers are followed by rounded fruit capsules which split open at maturity to release the numerous small, brown, ridged seeds. Each plant can produce 1 to 2 million seeds which, under favourable growing conditions, will readily self-seed.

Because the plants seed themselves so freely, in some countries foxgloves are considered a weed or invasive plant. They have naturalised in other parts of Europe and Africa, Asia, South America, New Zealand, Canada, and much of the United States. Newer F1 garden cultivars of foxglove produce sterile seeds and are not considered invasive.

Cultivated forms also often show flowers completely surrounding the central flower spike, in contrast to the wild form, where the flowers only appear on one side; and by 2015 perennial hybrids were developed that bloom all summer. The velvety flowers of foxgloves last long in a vase, and come in shades of lavender to purple, pink to rose-red, and white, yellow, and cream, and the inside surface of the flower tube is heavily spotted with dark purple edged in white, and also on the lower lip, which serves as a landing platform for pollinators.

The flowers are visited by bees and primarily bumble-bees, which climb deep into the flower tube to get the nectar which lies in a ring at the base of the tube, and in the process they rub against the anthers which lie flat on the upper inside surface of the corolla. When visiting another flower, the pollen rubs off on the cleft stigma. In their natural habitat, hummingbirds are also known to visit the flowers.

There are many cultivars available which vary in height, but most of the modern strains are quite compact and grow about 60 to 90cm tall and 25 to 30cm wide. Some strains are easily grown by the novice gardener, while others are more challenging.

Foxglove 'Camalot Lavender' Picture courtesy Nu-leaf NurseryPopular, easy to grow garden cultivars include:

Dwarf ‘Foxy Mix’ is a cherished Heirloom variety with rich colours on shorter stems. It is extremely popular because it blooms reliably from seed in the first year, and if sown in early autumn it will flower within 5 months, producing sturdy flower stems about 70cm tall with showy white to cream, and rose to pink and purple blooms, with spotted throats. Its compact growth habit makes it lovely in containers. This biennial is mostly treated as an annual that re-seeds itself readily in the garden.

Dalmatian ‘Peach’ received the prestigious Award of Garden Merit of the Royal Horticultural Society for its dreamy, soft peach-coloured trumpets with orange speckled throats, in its first year. It is compact, growing to a height of 40 to 50cm, with a spread of 35cm, and will continue to flower on side shoots once the central spike is cut back after flowering. This foxglove is a popular biennial or short-lived perennial which is often treated as an annual, and will self-seed in the garden.

The new ‘Camelot Series’ of F1 hybrid Foxglove was developed in 2003, and remains a sensational improvement on older varieties, as it blooms very early, and tolerates more heat and humidity than many foxgloves, making it more suitable for our warm climate. Even if you plant seedlings out in spring, before summer has hardly begun, it will be sporting its first display of fat buds, which burst into glorious bloom over a long, very profuse season. Flower colours are white, cream, lavender, rose, and mixed, all with the distinctive speckling in the throat.  Situate Camelot foxgloves in partial shade and in rich, moist soil, and this perennial will put on a fine show for several seasons. It is tall and stately, growing 1.2m tall with a spread up to 60cm, and although a perennial, this foxglove is often treated as an annual.

‘Excelsior’ hybrids are grand, old fashioned biennial foxgloves that bloom in their second year, but are well worth the wait, and this magnificent Heirloom variety produces stately flowering spires from 1.2 to 1.8m tall, with flowers arranged evenly around the spike, in pastel shades of rose pink to lavender pink, light pink, creamy yellow and white, with heavily spotted throats. It needs space as it can spread 45 to 60cm and creates a spectacular presence at the back of borders, and makes handsome cut flowers, whose seeds can be collected and saved.

Uses:

Digoxin is a type of medicine called a cardiac glycoside. It's used to control some heart problems, such as irregular heartbeats (arrhythmias) including atrial fibrillation. It can also help to manage the symptoms of heart failure, usually with other medicines, and Digitalis purpurea is the original source of this heart medicine.

Its clinical use was pioneered by William Withering, who recognized it "reduced dropsy", increased urine flow, and had a powerful effect on the heart. During World War II, when German blockades created shortages, County Herb Committees were established to collect medicinal herbs, and this included Digitalis purpurea which was used to regulate heartbeat.

In the Garden:

Foxgloves bring dramatic and richly coloured vertical accents to garden beds and borders  in spring and summer, and make excellent cut flowers if picked when the blooms are half open.  They suit many gardens, be they modern city gardens or cottage gardens, and Foxgloves, along with delphiniums, are the stars, the bones of the classic cottage garden. They even do well in sheltered coastal gardens, and the white ones are popular in moon gardens.

Foxgloves are particularly effective when planted in groups in front of dark backgrounds such as those provided by a building, hedge, or other shrubs, where they will really stand out.

Foxglove 'Dalmation Peach' Picture courtesy Nu-leaf NurseryCultivation/Propagation:

Seedlings of modern foxglove varieties that bloom in their first year are usually planted out in autumn or early spring, and seeds are sown directly into garden beds in autumn to flower the following spring and summer.

Foxgloves prefer cool climatic conditions where rainfall is good, and to be cultivated successfully they require deep, rich, loamy soils and cool root zones. They will grow in semi-shade to sun, but in regions where it gets hot very early in summer, its best to plant them in a cool position.

They also do well in sheltered coastal gardens and are hardy to cold and frost. In severe frost regions, first-year plants that have not bloomed yet should be covered with a thick layer of dried leaves or mulch in autumn, before the ground freezes.

This plant will happily grow in temperatures between 12 to 28℃, however, if temperatures reach over 30℃ the plant may start to wilt and die. For this reason they are not well suited to very hot and dry regions, and although they are not too fussy about humidity, in very humid regions they may struggle with fungal diseases.

Because they grow best in regions with high rainfall, they must be watered thoroughly during dry spells.  However, on the other hand, they do not tolerate waterlogged soils. Careful watering is essential in getting plants off to a good start, and if your soil is rich and deep, watering well once a week should be sufficient.  Try to water early in the morning to give the leaves enough time to dry, as this helps to prevent fungal diseases.

Although foxgloves prefer light, moist soils high in organic matter and with good drainage, they will grow in almost any type of soil that is not too dry or overly wet.  They also like slightly acid soils, so add acid compost and even some well-rotted manure to the beds, as well as a sprinkling of 2:3:2 fertilisers. Mix all this into the soil by digging the beds over thoroughly.

Foxgloves respond badly to too much feeding, and if your soil is rich and fertile, and the plants are mulched regularly, extra feeding may not be required at all. However, if your soil is poor, or you are growing in pots, the plants will respond well to regular feeding with a liquid fertiliser for flowering plants. Keep granular fertilisers away from the plant crown and foliage to avoid burn injury, and when using a slow release fertilizer, use low rates, as higher rates may encourage root rots.

Protect your plants from strong wind, and although generally there is no need for staking, you can plant stakes if the site is fairly windy, or to protect them from storms. To avoid damage to the roots later, do this when you plant out the seedlings.

Cutting spent foxglove blooms will encourage repeat blooming, and for the heirloom varieties, also prevent re-seeding, although some gardeners choose to leave the last flower stalks of the season to allow the plants to self-sow in the garden.

Seed germinates best in soil temperatures between 15 and 18°C. Don’t sow the seeds too deep just cover them with soil to twice their own thickness. You can also simply press them gently into the soil before watering them in lightly. If you keep the soil moist, germination takes place in about 5 to 10 days. Once they grow their first true leaves thin the plant a bit and allow them to grow further before their final thinning to space them correctly. If you selected to buy seedlings from a garden centre, check the label for plant spacing, which is generally between 30 or 40cm apart, depending on the variety. 

Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their germination. Mulches also help to retain moisture in the soil and help to maintain a more even soil temperature. An organic mulch of aged bark or shredded leaves will lend a natural look to the bed, and as it breaks down it improves the texture of the soil. Most importantly, when mulching, and especially with Foxgloves, keep the mulch away from the plant stems to prevent possible rot.

With heirloom varieties you can collect seeds to save after the blooms have faded. Allow the seeds to mature on the stalk, and by mid to late summer they should be ready to harvest. Make sure to do it before the seed capsules have burst and spread the seed around the garden.

Problems, Pests & Diseases:

Foxgloves may be susceptible to aphids, mealy bugs, slugs, red spider, Japanese beetles, and leaf and bud eelworm. Treat with a suitable pesticide, or control with organic sprays like insecticidal soaps, neem oil, or essential oils.

Because foxgloves grow in moist soil, and in partial shade, they can be affected by a variety of funguses, such as verticillium wilt and leaf spot; and powdery and downy mildews can infect the foliage in late summer.

Anthracnose is a fungal disease which causes brown spots with purple edges on the leaves. The spots slowly turn black in the centre, causing the leaves to become yellow before drying out completely and falling off. The fungus overwinters in diseased plant debris, so keeping your garden clean by weeding and removing any diseased plant material lying around will go a long way in preventing infections. Applying mulch around the roots of the plants will also help to prevent the spores splashing from the soil onto plants.

Crown rot can be a problem, sometimes caused by white fungal spores or by dense, poorly draining soils. Seriously affected plants will need to be discarded.

To prevent fungal problems, space the plants correctly, do not water overhead, and water early so the leaves that do get wet have plenty of time to dry out during the day. Also, ensure that the soil drains well, and do not overwater.

Warning:

Digitalis purpurea is a poisonous species of flowering plant in the plantain family Plantaginaceae. Due to the presence of the cardiac glycoside digitoxin, the leaves, flowers and seeds of this plant are all poisonous to humans and a problem for cats, dogs and horses.

All parts of the plant are toxic if ingested, and contact with the leaves can irritate sensitive skin, so wear gloves when handling this plant.

Symptoms of Digitalis poisoning include a low pulse rate, nausea, vomiting, and uncoordinated contractions of different parts of the heart, leading to cardiac arrest and finally death.

Canterbury Bells. Picture courtesy Ann SonghurstCondensed Version:

Canterbury bells remind one of a storybook English cottage garden with their tall flower spikes and elegant, bell-shaped flowers, which come in a lovely array of colours, from purple to violet, blue, lavender, pink, and white, and which last extremely long in a vase. These biennial flowering plants take two years to complete their biological lifecycle, and this is a long cultivation period. If grown from seed, the plants can take a whole year or more to flower, but it is sure worth the wait! If you are impatient, you may on occasion see the plants available in nursery pots or trays. Snap them up, as these more established plants will flower sooner. In their first year of growth the plants form a low rosette of green leaves, but the flowering stems can reach +-70 to 80cm in height, making them a perfect background plant for the flower border.  

Canterbury bells thrive in regions with good summer rainfall and are not suited to very hot, dry or humid regions. In South Africa, and the old and trusted Canterbury Bell’s ‘Cup and Saucer’ is still the most readily available variety from seed suppliers. It is generally sown in spring, or in late summer and autumn, and the plants require cold, short days, followed by long days, for flowering. They prefer reasonably cold winter temperatures and are hardy to frost. Although they love full sun they will also grow in light shade, and in hotter regions some midday or afternoon shade would be appreciated. Plant them in good, deep, well-drained soil and water regularly, especially during dry spells.

Germination is easy and will take place within 8 to 14 days, and the tiny seeds are usually sown directly into well-prepared garden beds, but can also be sown into seedling trays. Space them about 30 to 40cm apart in the garden. Cutting out the dead flowers regularly will often encourage a second flush of flowers.

Full Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

Canterbury bells are gorgeous old-fashioned biennials which at one time were widely grown, and which still deserve a place in modern gardens. They remind one of a storybook English cottage garden with their tall flower spikes and elegant, bell-shaped flowers, which come in a lovely array of colours, from purple to violet, blue, lavender, pink, and white, and which last extremely long in a vase.

Campanula medium is native to Southern Europe, but it is naturalized in most European countries and in North America. In its natural habitat it grows on stony, rocky and bushy slopes, at an altitude of 0 to 1,500 metres above sea level.  Canterbury bells are biennial flowering plants which take two years to complete their biological lifecycle. This is a long cultivation period, and if grown from seed, the plants can take a whole year or more to flower, but it is sure worth the wait! And, if they are happy where they are sited Canterbury bells will re-seed themselves in the garden.

If you are impatient, you may on occasion see the plants available in nursery pots or trays. Snap them up, as these more established plants will flower sooner.

In their first year of growth the plants form a low rosette of green leaves, and only in the following spring and early summer will the upright flowering stems appear. Each stem bears loads of large dangling bells, and the flowering stems can reach +-70 to 80cm in height, making them a perfect background plant for the flower border.  

Uses:

Beekeepers sometimes use Canterbury bells for making potently sweet honey.

In the Garden:

Canterbury bells love cooler gardens and when in full bloom they will add grace and elegance to any garden, but are a ‘must-have’ for all country and cottage gardens. They are indispensable for adding vertical interest to the annual and perennial flower garden and wonderful as an under-planting for Roses. Try planting them with delphiniums, hollyhocks and snapdragons around borders and fences for a breath-taking display. They can also add spectacular height to large, mixed container plantings.

Cultivation/Propagation:

Although modern hybrids have been bred which are shorter, with a more compact growth habit, and which do not require cold days to bloom, allowing gardeners to sow seed in spring, summer or autumn, these are not freely available in South Africa, and the old and trusted Canterbury Bells ‘Cup and Saucer’ is still the most readily available variety from seed suppliers.

In South Africa the ‘Cup and Saucer’ variety is generally sown in spring, or in late summer and autumn, to flower in their second year after sowing. The plants require cold, short days, followed by long days, for flowering. So if you want Canterbury bells in your garden every season, you need to sow or plant them out each season.

Canterbury bells prefer reasonably cold winter temperatures and are hardy to frost. They love full sun but will also grow in light shade, and in hotter regions some midday or afternoon shade would be appreciated. Canterbury bells thrive in regions with good summer rainfall and are not suited to very hot, dry or humid regions. Try to plant them in a part of the garden that is protected from strong winds, or the plants will require staking.
 
The tiny seeds are usually sown directly into well-prepared garden beds, but can also be sown into seedling trays. They will germinate best in soil temperatures between 15 and 20°C, and only require minimal covering with soil, as the seeds need light to germinate. Germination is easy and will take place within 8 to 14 days. When the seedlings develop their first true leaves, they must be thinned out to space them about 30 to 40cm apart.

Canterbury bells will tolerate a wide range of soil types as long as they drain well. Plant them in good, deep, well-drained soil and water regularly, especially during dry spells. Cutting out the dead flowers regularly will often encourage a second flush of flowers. However, Canterbury bells will often re-seed themselves in the garden, and you can collect and save the seed for next season. In this case, do not cut back the spent flowers, and allow them to seed themselves, or collect and hang the stems upside-down in a paper bag until the heads are completely dry. Remove the seeds and store in an airtight container until next season.

Problems, Pests & Diseases:

Watch out for snails and slugs. Powdery mildews and rust diseases may be a problem, especially in moist, warm and humid weather. These can be controlled with an appropriate natural fungicide.

Warning:

Campanula medium is listed as non-toxic to humans, dogs, cats and horses.

Condensed VersionImage by Kerstin Riemer from Pixabay:

Throughout winter and spring English daisies produce masses of tightly quilled, single, or double flowers, which stand above the fresh, bright-green leaves. The blooms come in shades of pink, white and rosy red, with cheerful yellow centres, and will bloom continuously for weeks on end. English daisies are neat, compact plants, growing about 15 to 20cm tall, making them superb edging plants for pathways and flower borders, and also for pots.

In South Africa they are grown throughout the country as winter and spring flowering annuals. English daisies are easy to grow, and will adapt to most garden soil types, even heavy clay soils, as long as they are well-drained. For best results, provide a moist, fertile and well-drained soil by preparing the beds well by digging them over and adding organic material like compost, and a dressing of bone meal.

In pots they can be planted together with other compatible bulbs and annuals in good potting soil. All plants growing in pots will require more frequent watering and feeding than those growing in garden beds and many gardeners prefer to use liquid fertilisers to avoid over fertilising or burning their plants. 

In moist soils they love to grow in full sun, but they will take some shade, and in dry winter regions where the days can still get quite hot, some shade will keep them blooming for longer.  Although English daisies love moist soils they have average water needs, so water regularly, but do not overwater.

English daisies are available in seedling trays from garden centres, which is often most convenient and quick for smaller gardens, but they also grow easily from seed sown directly into well prepared beds, or seedling trays, when the soil temperatures are between 15 to 25°C. Cover the seeds lightly (2mm) and if you are sowing into trays, keep them in a cool, bright place until germination takes place. Germination times can vary according to conditions, taking anything from 3 to 20 days. Once the seedlings have their first true leaves they can be thinned out to space them 15 to 20cm apart. Flowering should start about 90 to 100 days after sowing.

To keep them blooming, it is most important to cut out the dead flower heads regularly. If the soil was prepared well, additional feeding may not be necessary, but if you have planted them in garden beds between bulbs or other annuals, English daisies can be fed along with your other winter and spring flowering plants.

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Description, History & Interesting Facts:

English daisies remain extremely popular garden plants, not only for their charm but also because they are so unfussy and easy to grow. Throughout winter and spring they never fail to delight with their masses of tightly quilled, single, or double flowers, which stand above the fresh, bright-green leaves. The blooms come in shades of pink, white and rosy red, with cheerful yellow centres, and will bloom continuously for weeks on end. English daisies are neat, compact plants, growing about 15 to 20cm tall, making them superb edging plants for pathways and flower borders, and also for pots. Like other daisies, it exhibits the phenomenon of heliotropism, where the flowers follow the position of the sun in the sky.

The English daisy is a common native of western, central and northern Europe, including remote islands such as Faroe Island. It grows in abundance in meadows where it flowers for much of the year, and is also called the "lawn daisy" as it habitually colonises lawns, and is difficult to eradicate by mowing. English daisies are truly so pretty - even the Genus name “bellis” comes from the Latin word “bellus”, meaning pretty; and the garden hybrids we know and love today were developed from this robust and hardy plant. In most temperate regions, including the Americas and Australasia, it has escaped garden cultivation and has become naturalised.

Health benefits:

The medicinal properties of the daisy were recorded as far back as the 16th century, when an English botanist, John Gerard, who had a large herbal garden in London, documented the medicinal properties of daisies in his book “Gerard's Herbal”. Today daisies remain a popular home remedy with a wide range of applications. The herb is mildly anodyne, antispasmodic, antitussive, demulcent, digestive, emollient, expectorant, laxative, ophthalmic, purgative and tonic.

Traditionally daisies are well-known as a “fresh wound herb”, and the flowers and leaves can be used fresh in decoctions, ointments and poultices for treating wounds, bruises, and also boils. Today the plant is harvested when in flower and is used as a homeopathic remedy which is especially indicated for the treatment of bruising.

The fresh or dried flowering heads are used to make an infusion to use as a blood purifier, or to ease complaints of the respiratory tract, including coughs, as well as for the treatment of catarrh, rheumatism, arthritis, liver and kidney disorders. Chewing the fresh leaves is said to be a cure for mouth ulcers.

Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.

Uses:

The leaves flowers and buds of this daisy may be used as a potherb. Young leaves can be eaten raw in salads or cooked, although their flavour has been described as somewhat acrid by some people, and pleasantly sour according to others. Flower buds and petals can be eaten raw in sandwiches, soups and salads. Even though the leaves and flowers are edible the plant is mostly used as a medicinal herb

Image by Goran Horvat from PixabayIn the Garden:

English daisies are excellent anywhere in the garden, growing easily in pots and window boxes, and adding some magic to woodland or pebble gardens. They are great bedding plants and striking when planted in flower borders or alongside pathways. They are perfect companions for pansies and violas, or to interplant with winter and spring flowering bulbs, and in large gardens and parks they are often planted in mass together with Dutch Iris, tulips or daffodils. An added bonus is that English daisies will attract butterflies to the garden, providing vital nectar when food is scarce.

Cultivation/Propagation:

In their native habitats English daisies thrive in cool, moist climates, where they are perennial plants which bloom in summer, or even sporadically throughout the year. However, in hot and sunny South Africa they are grown throughout the country as winter and spring flowering annuals. Because they love moisture, these daisies thrive in the winter rainfall regions, and because they do not do well in high heat and humidity, in subtropical regions they are grown during the coolest months. In the cooler mist belt regions of the country blooming will continue into summer.

English daisies are easy to grow, and will adapt to most garden soil types, even heavy clay soils, as long as they are well-drained, growing in acid, neutral and basic (alkaline) soils. For best results, provide a moist, fertile and well-drained soil by preparing the beds well by digging them over and adding organic material like compost, and a dressing of bone meal.

In pots they can be planted together with other compatible bulbs and annuals in good potting soil. All plants growing in pots will require more frequent watering and feeding than those growing in garden beds and many gardeners prefer to use liquid fertilisers to avoid over fertilising or burning their plants.  

In moist soils they love to grow in full sun, but they will take some shade, and in dry winter regions where the days can still get quite hot, some shade will keep them blooming for longer.  Although English daisies love moist soils they have average water needs, so water regularly, but do not overwater.

English daisies are available in seedling trays from garden centres, which is often most convenient and quick for smaller gardens, but they also grow easily from seed sown directly into well prepared beds, or seedling trays, when the soil temperatures are between 15 to 25°C. Cover the seeds lightly (2mm) and if you are sowing into trays, keep them in a cool, bright place until germination takes place. Germination times can vary according to conditions, taking anything from 3 to 20 days. Once the seedlings have their first true leaves they can be thinned out to space them 15 to 20cm apart. Flowering should start about 90 to 100 days after sowing.

To keep them blooming, it is most important to cut out the dead flower heads regularly. If the soil was prepared well, additional feeding may not be necessary, but if you have planted them in garden beds between bulbs or other annuals, English daisies can be fed along with your other winter and spring flowering plants.

If left to self-seed in the garden, the double forms will quickly revert back to ordinary single forms.

Problems, Pests & Diseases:

Generally daisies have no known serious insect or disease problems but may have some problems with root-knot nematodes (galls) and rust.

Warning:

Daisies can cause contact dermatitis in people who are allergic, but generally pose little to no toxicity risk to humans though it is always advisable to supervise babies and small children in the garden.

Some daisies, such as the gerber or Barberton daisy, are not toxic at all while many others contain several toxins that are all dangerous to your pet. The common or English daisy (Bellis perennis) and the poison daisy (Anthemis cotula) are two varieties that are poisonous to dogs, cats and horses. The symptoms of daisy poisoning in animals include contact dermatitis, vomiting, diarrhoea, anorexia, allergic reactions, and prolonged bleeding. If a pet ingests daisies, it is important to call a veterinarian immediately.

These most common daisies contain several poisonous substances including pyrethroids, which are used to make insecticides like flea medication. This can lead to serious problems in your dog if it consumes a large amount of daisies after recently being treated for fleas with medication or shampoo that contains pyrethrins or pyrethroids. Your dog can normally metabolize a small amount of these chemicals which are in the flea treatment, but paired with the natural chemicals in the daisy it can lead to a serious toxic reaction.

Sesquiterpene is another substance found in many daisies that can cause intestinal upset and skin irritation.

Ageratum 'Lilac'Condensed Version:

This little summer annual grows quickly to +-15 to 20cm tall and 15cm wide, and remains an old favourite with gardeners because it blooms nonstop all summer and into autumn, and is available in lovely pastel shades of blue, lavender, pink, and white.

Ageratum grows well in all South Africa’s growing regions and tolerates wind. They will also grow in semi-shade to full sun, and are not fussy about soil as long as it is fertile and well-drained.

Full Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

This little summer annual belongs to the daisy family and is native to Central America and the West Indies. It remains an old favourite with gardeners because its fluffy clusters of flowers bloom nonstop all summer and into autumn.  Flower shades are lovely pastels in blue, lavender, pink, and white, and the hairy, dark green, heart-shaped leaves are also attractive. Ageratum grows quickly, maturing +-15 to 20cm tall and 15cm wide.
 
Ageratum 'White'In the Garden:

Their long-flowering period makes Ageratum ideal for rock gardens, as well as great edging plants and fillers for flower borders. Mixed with other flowering annuals or perennials, they will add texture to the planting, and their soft pastel shades compliment almost any colour scheme. They also look great planted in masses of one colour and are most attractive when paired with silver foliaged plants. Petunias and many other low growing annuals look great next to Ageratum; and contrasting coloured flowers such as Rudbeckia or tall Marigolds, planted behind ageratum create a pleasant colour combination.

Ageratum grows easily in containers, filling in the gaps between other flowers beautifully. Taller growing cultivars make excellent cut flowers; and an added bonus is they attract butterflies to the garden.

Cultivation/Propagation:

Ageratum grows well in all South Africa’s growing regions and tolerates wind. It grows in full sun to semi-shade, but in very hot and dry summer regions the plants will appreciate some shade during the hottest time of the day. They are not fussy about soil as long as it is fertile and well-drained, requiring only regular watering and the removal of weeds for good growth. Removing the old flowers regularly will promote continuous blooming.

Ageratum seeds are sown into seedling trays and require warmth; germinating best in soil temperatures of 25 to 28°C; with a minimum of 21°C. Do not cover ageratum seed as light is needed for germination, which will take 5 to 10 days. The plants will bloom in about 13 to 15 weeks after sowing. Ageratum may also be propagated by cuttings.

Pests & Diseases:

Ageratum is relatively disease and bug resistant, but during hot, dry spells spider mites can attack. To prevent spider mite infestations, mist the plants during dry spells with water, especially underneath the leaves or spray with a suitable insecticide.

In humid conditions powdery mildew can develop and to help prevent this try to water at root level and not overhead, to keep the leaves dry. Also, correct spacing of the plants will ensure a good air flow around the leaves of the plants, helping to prevent mildew outbreaks. If necessary, spray with an appropriate fungicide.

Badly damaged plants can be cut right down and should regrow and flower again.

Warning:

Ageratum does not appear in databases for poisonous plants, but many websites warn it is toxic to cattle. In some people it may cause skin problems if handled a lot, so wear gloves if you are sensitive. 

Click here to find beautiful flowering perennial Salvias

Red Hot Sally Improved Salvia. Picture courtesy Ball Horticultural Company These perennial plants are native to Brazil and perform well in hot gardens as long as they can be watered regularly. In South Africa they are grown as summer flowering annuals, and  will flower all summer and autumn. Salvia splendens is available in vibrantly coloured flower spikes, from bright red to pink, purple, scarlet, rose, cream and white.

Tall and dwarf varieties are available ranging in height from 15 to 90cm tall. The taller varieties will add accent to flowerbeds, and the dwarf varieties make excellent border plants and work well in containers, mixed with other summer flowering annuals.

Salvia is tender to frost and grows easily as a summer annual throughout South Africa, except for those very humid regions. It can be plated in full sun or light shade in composted, well-drained soil. In areas with very hot summers plant them where they receive partial shade, especially in the afternoon.

Cut your plants back after each flush of flowers and new growth will soon emerge, keeping them blooming continually.

Salvia's are very easy-to-grow and can be sown directly into well-prepared garden beds or seedling trays in spring and summer. Seed will germinate best in soil temperatures between 20 and 25°C. Cover the seed with soil or coarse vermiculite. Germination will take place within 10 to 14 days and the seedlings will bloom about 13 to 15 weeks after sowing.

Carefree Mix Coleus. Picture courtesy Ball Horticural CompanyCondensed Version:

Coleus is cultivated in shady gardens worldwide because it is durable, easy to grow, and amongst the most magnificent foliage plants the plant kingdom has to offer. It can even be grow as an indoor pot plant. Hybridization has produced an almost infinite number of leaf shapes and colour combinations, which include most colours of the spectrum, except true blue. Compact, dwarf varieties have been bred and there is even a trailing coleus. New introductions have also been selected for increased sun and heat tolerance.

Coleus is a good-natured plant that is pretty hard to kill and quite easy to propagate. It grows well throughout South Africa but is not ideally suited to very dry regions, unless it can be watered abundantly. Coleus thrives in subtropical seaside gardens provided it is protected from wind and is watered regularly. In subtropical regions coleus is treated as a short-lived perennial which can be grown all year round, but because it is sensitive to frost, in cold areas it is grown as a summer annual.

Most varieties prefer bright semi-shade and good, moist, well-drained soil. Plants grown in too much sun may wilt, and those grown in too much shade may become leggy. Never allow the soil dry out totally between watering, but do not allow it to become waterlogged either. Although coleus flowers are quite pretty, their true beauty is in their soft, velvety leaves, and most gardeners remove the flowering spikes, and occasionally pinch back the growth tips in order to encourage more bushy leaf growth.

Wizard Series Coleus. Picture courtesy Ball Horticural CompanyFull Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

Coleus is cultivated in shady gardens worldwide because it is durable, easy to grow, and amongst the most magnificent foliage plants the plant kingdom has to offer. This native of India (including the Himalayas), Sri Lanka, China, Burma, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Malaysia, Indonesia and Australia, belongs to the mint family, and can be found at elevations of 100 to 1,600m, where it flowers and fruits throughout the year.

The species was first introduced into Europe from Java in 1851 by a Dutch horticulturalist. At this time, there were few leaf colours and shapes, but by 1877 a wider selection became available when the American William Bull offered seeds at 43 US cents each. Coleus breeding continued into the early 1940s, and by the 1980s the availability of an improved range of cultivars led to coleus becoming the tenth most important bedding crop in the United States.

Hybridization continues to this day and has produced an almost infinite number of leaf shapes and colour combinations, which include most colours of the spectrum, except true blue. Compact, dwarf varieties have been bred and there is even a trailing coleus. New introductions have also been selected for increased sun and heat tolerance.

Watermelon Coleus. Picture courtesy Ball Horticural CompanyIn the Garden & Home:

Coleus is one of the brightest annuals for semi-shade, livening up any corner of the garden they are planted in. They make a striking display if massed in shady garden beds, and the lower growing dwarf varieties will create a colourful border, while the taller types provide a dramatic background planting.

Coleus is also the perfect container candidate, with the larger varieties making a striking backdrop in oversized mixed containers, and the smaller ones bringing accent and long-lasting colour to any potted planting, so fill your balcony boxes, hanging baskets and any spare containers with them.

The plants are also often grown indoors in a bright, warm room, growing very easily if they are watered well.

Cultivation/Propagation:

Coleus is a good-natured plant that is pretty hard to kill and quite easy to propagate. It grows well throughout South Africa but is not ideally suited to very dry regions, unless it can be watered abundantly. Coleus thrives in subtropical seaside gardens provided it is protected from wind and is watered regularly. In subtropical regions coleus is treated as a short-lived perennial which can be grown all year round, but because it is sensitive to frost, in cold areas it is grown as a summer annual.

Most varieties prefer bright semi-shade and good, moist, well-drained soil. Plants grown in too much sun may wilt, and those grown in too much shade may become leggy. Never allow the soil dry out totally between watering, but do not allow it to become waterlogged either. Although coleus flowers are quite pretty, their true beauty is in their soft, velvety leaves, and most gardeners remove the flowering spikes, and occasionally pinch back the growth tips in order to encourage more bushy leaf growth.

To grow coleus as an indoor pot plant, place your plant in a warm room which provides bright light, including a couple of hours of direct sunlight, if possible. Spindly growth is an indication of insufficient light, and the plant will need to be moved to a brighter position. Coleus requires plenty of water all season and will quickly wilt if allowed to dry out completely. It also loves humidity, so to increase humidity around the plant, stand the pot on top of a drip tray filled with small pebbles and keep the saucer filled with water, but ensure that the pot is not standing in the water. Nip out the growing tips and flowers regularly to keep the plant neat and bushy, and apply a liquid fertiliser about every two weeks throughout the season. Discard the plants at the end of the growing season, as it is better to plant a new, vigorous plant each summer.

Growing a Coleus collection from seed is really quite quick and easy, and the seeds are inexpensive and readily available. They germinate fast and will be showing their first colours in as little as two to three weeks. Another advantage to growing your Coleus this way, is that each packet of seeds will contain many different colours of plants. Seeds can be sown in seedling trays or very well-prepared garden beds, and germinate best in soil temperatures between 21 and 24°C. The seeds need some light to germinate so avoid covering them - simply sprinkle them onto the surface of the soil and press them down. In garden beds, keep the soil uniformly moist, and in seedling trays, to keep humidity high cover the trays with plastic or glass until germination, which normally occurs within 6 to 14 days.  When the seedlings are large enough to handle easily, they should be thinned out and transplanted into individual pots.

Propagating coleus with softwood cuttings is even easier than growing them from seed, and cuttings retain the exact characteristics as the parent plant, enabling you to clone your favourite colours. Cuttings can be taken anytime of the year and root easily in a glass of water or in moist perlite.

Problems, Pests & Diseases:

Coleus is a relatively carefree annual if it is happy where it is growing, but protect young plants from snails and slugs, and watch out for mealybugs, aphids, spider mites and whiteflies, especially if they are grown in an enclosed area like a courtyard, or are growing under a roof or overhang. If the soil does not drain well, and the weather becomes warm and moist, coleus is susceptible to fungal root and stem rot, and downy mildew.

Warning:

Coleus plants are not poisonous to humans and eating or touching them is unlikely to cause illness. However, the plant and sap can cause a reaction in sensitive people, resulting in minor skin irritation, and if eaten, this irritation may occur in the mouth and throat. For this reason it is best to keep them away from children.

They are toxic to pets, and if a dog or cat eats the plant it could cause symptoms such as diarrhoea, vomiting, depression and loss of appetite. If you suspect your pet has eaten this plant, contact your veterinarian immediately.

Nicotiana Nicki. Picture courtesy Ball Horticultural CompanyThis family of annuals and perennials is the source of the tobacco leaf. The flowers of the original flowering tobacco are very fragrant and open at night. Modern hybrids remain open all day, but are not always so fragrant or have no fragrance at all. What a pity that many new gardeners may never know the old fashioned flowering tobacco with its heady fragrance.

The modern hybrids are more compact growing and are free flowering for a long period in summer. The petals of the tubular flowers form a beautiful five-pointed star and are available in red, pale yellow, pink, lilac, burgundy, lime, green, and cream and white.

These shady garden classics are essential in cottage gardens. They are excellent cut flowers and attractive in border plantings, because their soft colours mix well with other perennials and annuals. The dwarf varieties are lovely in pots. Modern garden hybrids vary in height from 30 to 45cm tall.

These tough plants tolerate humidity and high temperatures. They grow well throughout South Africa in summer as long as they can be watered regularly and are protected from strong wind. They love to grow in semi-shade but will take some sun in cool regions. Plant them where they will receive full midday and afternoon shade in very hot areas. They love rich, moist, well-drained soil and must be watered regularly. Cutting back the old flower stalks after the first flush of blooms will encourage more flowers.

Nicotiana 'Red'

Sonata Carmine Cosmos. Picture courtesy Ball Horticural CompanyCondensed Version:

Although there are 20 known species of cosmos, two summer annuals, the commonly called Yellow Cosmos (Cosmos sulphurous) and the Mexican Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus) are most familiar to home gardeners, and easy to tell apart.  

The Mexican Cosmos is a tall, bushy annual growing between 1 and 2.5m high, with very finely divided mid-green leaves, and large pink or white flowers. Plant breeders have been hard at work, and today this cosmos comes in many named selections which include single, semi-double or fully double blooms in a variety of awesome colours ranging from lilac to deep carmine, scarlet red, and even peachy-pink and pale yellow. These new hybrids flower very profusely and for much longer, and exciting new dwarf varieties are also available which are extremely compact, and because they only grow 30 to 50cm tall, are suitable for even the smallest gardens and grow beautifully in pots - even if you only have a sunny balcony, you can grow at least one!

The yellow cosmos called "Bright Lights" is also known as Sulphur Cosmos and Yellow Cosmos. It is freely available and remains popular, not only for its ease of growth, but also for its lacy foliage and profusion of brilliant flowers in shades of orange, yellow, and flame-red, blooming from early summer until the first frosts.

Modern cosmos hybrids are compact, easy-to-grow and very free-flowering cut flowers. To flower well they require full sun and moderately fertile soil which drains well - if the soil is too rich and fertile they will not perform as well. This makes them ideal to grow in many of the drier summer rainfall regions of the country where the soils are less than perfect. In the winter rainfall regions, they will require regular summer watering, and in very humid regions they are susceptible to fungal diseases, although newer hybrids will tolerate more humidity.

Potted plants and trays of seedlings are available from garden centres, which can be planted out at any time, making them very handy for small gardens and containers, but gardeners on a budget prefer to sow the seeds directly where they are to grow, in late spring. Besides moderate watering during dry spells, cosmos will need not further attention or feeding.

Cosmos Dark Pink & WhiteFull Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

Cosmos are beautiful summer flowering annuals native to Mexico, where most of the species occur, as well as the United States, as far north as the Olympic Peninsula in Washington; and Central and South America, as far south as Paraguay. One species, the commonly called “Mexican Aster” (Cosmos bipinnatus) escaped gardens and naturalized itself across much of the eastern United States and eastern Canada, growing abundantly on disturbed land besides roads, and in fields and waste areas. It is also widespread over the high eastern plains of South Africa, where it was introduced via contaminated horse feed imported from Argentina during the Anglo-Boer War. In South Africa they flower religiously around Easter time, transforming open fields and roadways with their masses of flowers, and the flowering can continue until the first frosts.

Spanish priests grew cosmos in their mission gardens in Mexico, and it was their perfect, evenly placed petals which led them to christen the flower "Cosmos," the Greek word for harmony or ordered universe. Although there are 20 known species of cosmos, two annual species, the commonly called Yellow Cosmos (Cosmos sulphurous) and the Mexican cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus) are most familiar to home gardeners, and easy to tell apart.  

The Mexican cosmos is a tall, bushy annual growing between 1 and 2m high, with very finely divided mid-green leaves, and large pink or white flowers with a central disc of tightly clustered, usually yellow, inner disc florets. Plant breeders have been hard at work, and today this cosmos comes in many named selections which include single, semi-double or fully double blooms in a variety of awesome colours ranging from lilac to deep carmine, scarlet red, and even peachy-pink and pale yellow. These new hybrids flower very profusely and for much longer, and exciting new dwarf varieties are also available which are extremely compact, and because they only grow 30 to 50cm tall, are suitable for even the smallest gardens and grow beautifully in pots - even if you only have a sunny balcony, you can grow at least one!

Cosmos bipinnatus 'Antiquity' is a good example of a new and beautiful dwarf variety of cosmos with rich burgundy coloured flowers that change to antique bronze and salmon with age. This little gem may only grow about 38cm tall, but makes up for its lack in stature with its masses of flowers.  It is also a tough garden performer that tolerates poor soil, heat and humidity.

Cosmos sulphureus 'Bright Lights' is also known as Sulphur Cosmos and Yellow Cosmos. It is freely available and remains popular, not only for its ease of growth, but also for its lacy foliage and profusion of brilliant flowers in shades of orange, yellow, and flame-red, blooming from early summer until the first frosts. It loves full sun, tolerates humidity and grows quickly to a height of 90cm, and like other cosmos, thrives on poor soils.

Cosmos bipinnatus 'Antiquity' Picture courtesy Ball StraathofIn the Garden:

Because cosmos is non-toxic and so easy to grow, it is recommended for children’s gardens. It is also safe around dogs and cats.

Modern cosmos hybrids are compact, easy-to-grow and very free-flowering. They also last well in a vase, and the more you pick them, the more they will bloom, attracting butterflies, bees and other beneficial insect pollinators to the garden.

The taller varieties make a wonderful background plant for the flower garden and are marvellous in wild meadow and cottage gardens. Dwarf strains are perfectly charming if planted as borders and thrive in containers, making them perfect for brightening up patios, balconies and courtyard gardens.
 
Cultivation/Propagation:

Modern cosmos hybrids are compact, easy to grow and very free-flowering, but to flower well they require full sun and moderately fertile soil which drains well - if the soil is too rich and fertile they will not perform as well. This makes them ideal to grow in many of the drier summer rainfall regions of the country where the soils are less than perfect. In the winter rainfall regions, they will require regular summer watering, and in very humid regions they are susceptible to fungal diseases, although newer hybrids will tolerate more humidity.

Potted plants and seedling trays are available from garden centres, which can be planted out at any time, making them very handy for small gardens and containers, but gardeners on a budget prefer to sow the seeds directly where they are to grow, in late spring. Germination should take place within 4 to 7 days in ideal soil temperatures between 18 and 21°C. Lightly cover the seeds with soil, and thin out the small seedlings to space them correctly - check the plant label or seed packet. Cosmos grows quickly, and modern hybrids can start blooming within 10 to 12 weeks after sowing, but in some climates, cosmos sown in spring may not come into full bloom until the days become shorter in late summer.

Besides moderate watering during dry spells cosmos will need no further attention or feeding, besides keeping the beds free of weeds. Cutting flowers for the vase, and deadheading spent flowers regularly will prolong flowering, but at the end of the season leave a few seed heads to ripen and self-seed, or collect and store for next season.

Problems, Pests & Diseases:

If grown correctly cosmos suffer from no serious insect or disease problems, but may occasionally be attacked by aphids or red spider mites, which can be treated with insecticide soaps or other appropriate insecticides.

During moist, warm weather, and in humid regions, they can be susceptible to powdery mildew and other fungal diseases.

Warning:

Cosmos is a lovely non-toxic flower which is recommended for children’s gardens, and is also safe around cats and dogs.