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Camellia japonica 'Hakurakuten' Picture courtesy horti.co.zaA common myth about camellias is they are fussy to grow, but this is not true as they are also known as exceptionally carefree plants if a few basic rules are followed, and once established they are relatively maintenance free. Read more below about growing and caring for them so they will reward you with blooms for generations to come.

All photographs show here are courtesy of horti.co.za. Click here to see their beautiful selection of Camellias.

Condensed Version:

Most hybrid camellias for the garden derive from three particularly attractive species, namely the autumn flowering Camellia sasanqua, the winter-flowering Camellia japonica, and the large-flowered Camellia reticulata that finishes blooming in spring. Many garden hybrids are created by crossing two different Camellia species, for example, the large blooms of Camellia x williamsii are a result of crossing Camellia japonica with Camellia saluensis. Consult with your garden centre for the correct varieties for your area.

Camellias can be grown almost throughout South Africa with the correct care, but are not well suited to very hot, dry inland areas. They are generally extremely cold hardy, and in coastal regions they are planted more inland as they do not tolerate salt spray, and in very hot and humid coastal areas they prefer to grow away from the steamy coastline, at higher altitudes where it is cooler. 

Camellias thrive in semi-shade and require rich, well-drained, acid soil with a pH of 5.8 to 6.5. As camellias need oxygen around their surface roots to breath, packing too much soil on top of the root mass when planting can deplete the oxygen supply to the roots, so it is imperative that camellias are planted at the proper depth, ensuring that once planted the stem will be no higher or deeper than it was when growing in its nursery bag. Don’t dig around their roots as they have a shallow root system.

Water is a vital element in camellia success or failure and overwatering could result in root rot, especially if the soil doesn’t drain well, but on the other hand, under watering will result in poor growth and bud drop. If your soil pH is correct you can feed with any good feeder for flowering plants, but consider purchasing a specialist camellia fertiliser, or one for acid loving plants, and feed throughout the season as recommended.

Camellia x williamsii 'Pink Lace' Picture courtesy horti.co.zaFull Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

There are a handful of plants which just never go out of fashion, and included in these are Camellias, which, together with Roses, can always be found at garden centres. From their beginnings as wild plants growing in the Chinese, Japanese and South Korean countryside, camellias have come a long way, and today they can be found growing in gardens almost all over the world.

In the wild the plants love to grow in communities in the dappled shade provided by a canopy of trees, and in China they are commonly found growing in bushy clumps between pines trees. In more open situations they grow upwards to become small trees, forming camellia woodland’s. Camellias that typically form woodlands include: Camellia japonica, ‘tsubaki’, found in many parts of the Japanese archipelago, and Camellia sasanqua, ‘sasanka’ in southern Japan. In China, Camellia reticulata may occasionally be found growing in full sun but is mostly found in semi-shade.

The very first camellias were cultivated as ‘tea’ plants around 5 000 years ago, and local camellias, like Camellia sinensis var. sinensis, which is widely distributed in China, were planted and tended in order to harvest only the young, new shoots to make the now famous beverage.

At least 1 000 years ago, selections from other wild species of Camellia with more beautiful flowers than those used to make tea, like the particularly lovely Camellia japonica and Camellia reticulata in Yunnan, China, were cultivated as ornamentals in the gardens of temples and homes of the nobility. The process of selecting and crossing camellias had begun, but it was only much later that these splendid plants gradually filtered out of China and Japan to ‘the west’.

Records date the first camellia grown in the United Kingdom from the late 1730’s. It is not known which specific variety it was, but it was a single red camellia that was grown at Thorndon Hall in Essex, most probably under glass, and from seed. However, it was only 60 years later, in the 1790’s that camellias became more numerous in Britain, and as the trade in tea with China grew, more and more East India ships returned to Britain with camellia plants on board. Such a journey would have taken around one year – a very long time for a plant to survive at sea! These imports were not wild varieties but beautiful cultivated varieties from Chinese nurseries.

In Japanese camellias are called “Tsubaki” and in China “Cháhuā”, but the name “Camellia” was given to the genus in the 18th century, in honour of Georg Joseph Camel (or Kamel in Czech or Camellus in Latin), a Czech missionary and botanist, who wrote an important treatise on plants of the Philippines in the early 1700’s.

In 1792, two varieties, Camellia Japonica Alba Plena, a double flowering white variety, and Camellia Japonica Variegata, were brought to Britain by Captain John Corner in his ship ‘East Indiaman Carnatic’. They were intended for the ship’s owner Gilbert Slater, and it is widely believed that these two camellias were later planted at Chiswick House in the 1820’s. Naturally, everyone who saw these gorgeous flowers was totally smitten, and more varieties soon followed, and by the mid 1800’s the arrival of the pink flowering Camellia reticulata arrived with Richard Rawes.

Camellias had become so fashionable in Britain by 1828, that at Chiswick House it was decided to replace the exotic fruit originally housed in the Conservatory with the very ‘in vogue’ camellias. The collection was housed under glass, as at the time it was widely believed that camellias were far too delicate to be grown outside without protection from the harsh British winters. The plants thrived, and each spring when the camellias were in bloom London society of the day would come in their droves to enjoy a stroll through the Camellia Conservatory and marvel at the exotic blooms. Today it still houses the oldest camellia collection under glass in Western Europe, and here you will discover many direct camellia descendants of the original plants dating from 1828, including Camelia japonica and ‘Variegata’, and ‘Alba Plena’. By the close of the 18^thcentury camellias were all the rage as conservatory plants, featuring in the finest gardens of Europe and England.

Camellia sasanqua 'Henrietta' Picture courtesy horti.co.zaClick here to read more about the Chiswick House Camellia Show 

Click here to see Google images of the Camellias at Chiswick House

Camellias continued to live under glass until later in the 1800’s when they were found to be hardy enough to survive the British winter. It was at this point that English nurseries began to breed camellias and they became immensely popular with gardeners everywhere, and no longer only the preserve of the wealthy. The mild climate of Cornwall made it the perfect spot to grow camellias outside and evidence of this can be found at the gardens of Tregothnan, home to the Boscawen family since 1334, and thought to be the earliest plantings of camellias in the open, and the pioneer of the UK’s first tea plantations. Camellias were also later found at the acclaimed Lost Gardens of Heligan.

Click here to read more about the gardens of Tregothnan

Click here to read more about Lost Gardens of Heligan.

When it was realised that camellias were actually successful outdoors interest spread throughout Europe and by the middle of the 19th century camellia cultivation was widespread. Hybridists and nurseries in Belgium, Holland, Germany, Italy, France, Portugal, Spain and the UK were breeding, propagating and selling more and more camellia plants in more and more varieties.

The 19^th century also saw the spread of camellias to North America, New Zealand and Australia, and hybridists produced ever more exotic varieties which triggered great competition amongst gardeners, and just like roses, camellia shows became regular events, camellia societies sprung up, especially in the USA, and gardeners started to grown specifically to produce blooms for these shows.

Interestingly, a fifty year old specimen at Descanso Gardens located in the San Rafael Hills in Los Angeles County, California, whose famed camellia collection is believed to be the largest in the world, an incredibly long lateral limb of a Camellia reticulate measured more than 5m long!

Click here to see Google images of Descanso Gardens

In South Africa we have the International Camellia Garden of Excellence at Vergelegen Wine Estate in Somerset West – one of only two in the southern hemisphere, and the only one in Africa. The history of Vergelegen’s camellias goes back decades, and the earliest camellias were planted by Cynthia Barlow after her family bought Vergelegen in 1941. The plantings were classic, pre-1940’s Camellia japonica cultivars, and today they are mature shrubs reaching magnificent heights of up to 5m.

Over the years the collection at Vergelegen was continually expanded and camellias were sourced locally and as far afield as France, Japan and America, and today the estate boasts a remarkable collection of about 550 camellia cultivars, making up a collection of about 1 000 specimens. The magnificent blooms are at their best in winter, and continue flowering through spring.

Click here to read more about the camellias at Vergelegen

Today camellias are grown outdoors in gardens around the world, and like roses, camellias continue to intrigue a whole new generation of gardeners with their beautiful form, glossy evergreen leaves, and voluptuous, waxy blooms. There are about 300 known species, and plant breeders have created thousands of hybrids and cultivars that make ideal garden plants.

Most garden hybrids derive from three particularly attractive species, namely the autumn flowering Camellia sasanqua, the winter-flowering Camellia japonica, and the large-flowered Camellia reticulata that finishes blooming in spring.  Many garden hybrids are created by crossing two different Camellia species, for example, the large blooms of Camellia x williamsii are a result of crossing Camellia japonica with Camellia saluensis.

Camellia japonica 'Debutante' Picture courtesy horti.co.zaCamellia japonica

Camellia japonica is found growing wild in mainland China (Shandong, east Zhejiang), Taiwan, southern Korea, and southwestern Japan. It is found near the coast and in forests at altitudes of around 300 to 1 100m. Since the 11th century they have appeared in several gorgeous pieces of art from China including paintings and porcelain, and in the past, these plants were used as offerings to the gods, and they are still seen today as lucky symbols for the Chinese New Year. Camellia japonica is known to be extremely long-lived, and some japonicas growing in the surrounds of the Tokyo Imperial Palace in Japan are known to be more than 500 years old.

Click here to see Google images of the magnificent gardens of the Tokyo Imperial Palace.  

Camellia japonica is also known as the Common Camellia, Japanese Camellia, or simply Japonica in the USA, and out of all the camellia species, it is the most widely grown and has the most cultivars to choose from. It blooms in late winter through spring, depending on the variety, and there are thousands available in a wide selection of flower sizes, from miniatures only 4cm across to huge blossoms reaching 12cm across. The petal forms range from single to semi-double and very formal doubles, and come in delightful single or bicoloured shades of soft pink to dark red, and pure white and cream. This camellia has a pyramidal to upright oval shape that is very regular and formal in appearance, and grows slowly to 3m tall and 1m wide but can mature into a large shrub about 5m tall with a 3m spread, depending on growing conditions and climate. It makes a magnificent, formal focal point in the garden.

Camellia japonica will grow in coastal, subtropical and frosty regions, so ask your local nursery for help in selecting cultivars that will thrive in your area. If you live in the hotter regions of South Africa, avoid late-season bloomers (those that flower in September) because the weather will be too warm for them and may scorch the petals. These late bloomers are better suited to cooler and frosty areas.

Although Camellia japonica can cope in full sun, it most often needs protection from intense, direct midday and afternoon sun, and in our mostly hot and dry climate it tends to produce the best blooms in a light shade environment. Sudden temperature changes are not your Camellia japonicas friend, and although it can cope with temperatures that drop to as low as -12 degrees C, it can only do so for short periods. For this reason it is best to select your site carefully and to make sure it has adequate shelter against cold winter winds.  It also needs shelter from strong, salt-laden, coastal winds.

Just a few popular options from horti.co.za include:

Camellia japonica 'Brushfield’s Yellow’ is a large, upright growing shrub with beautiful blooms with white outer petals and a creamy yellow ruffled centre.

Camellia japonica ‘Debutante’ is a medium-sized, bushy shrub, with light pink, peony shaped blooms.

Camellia japonica ‘Hakurakuten’ has upright growth and produces large, pure white, semi-double blooms.

Camellia sasanqua 'Marie Young' Picture courtesy horti.co.zaCamellia sasanqua

Camellia sasanqua is a species of Camellia native to China and Japan and is usually found growing up to an altitude of 900m. It’s an evergreen shrub that, with maturity can reach up to 5m tall, with broad, glossy leaves, with finely serrated margins. Sasanquas start blooming earlier than Japonicas, starting anytime from late summer and continuing into autumn and early winter, depending on the cultivar, and where you live. The blooms of sasanquas are mostly single or semi-double and although they may not be quite as showy as the double Camellia japonica hybrids, they have their own special charm, and are born in such profusion at a time when the summer garden has faded, that sasanquas are truly one of the glories of the late summer and autumn garden, and therefore invaluable in the landscape.

Their elegant yet open growth habit allows them to blend in effortlessly with other shrubs in the mixed border, without dominating the landscape in the way the denser and more formal and upright growing Camellia japonica does. The lightly scented blooms feature fluted, ruffled petals, adorned with a central burst of bright golden-yellow stamens, and their colours range from white to shell-pink, and rosy red to cherry red, with some even sporting blooms with bold splotches of colour on the petals. Each flower lasts for only a few days, making them ill-suited for cutting.

Camellia sasanqua hybrids grow quicker than Camellia japonica hybrids and vary in height and spread. The taller varieties grow about 3m tall and 1.5m wide, maturing into large plants about 5m tall and 2.5m wide. Camellia sasanqua is still very hardy, but is less resistant to low temperatures than Camellia japonica, and although it enjoys filtered shade it can take a lot more sun than camellia japonica, even growing in full sun in cooler climates.

Just a few popular options from horti.co.za include:

Camellia sasanqua ‘Aimee’ is a small, compact shrub which produces a profusion of small, single pink flowers.

Camellia sasanqua ‘Marianne’ has bushy, upright growth and produces a profusion of smaller double, white, slightly ruffled blooms with a light musky fragrance.

Camellia sasanqua 'Marie Young' is a bush, medium-sized, upright shrub with soft, light pink single blossoms.

Camellia sasanqua ‘Henrietta’ is a medium-sized, upright shrub hich produces an abundance of small, loose, peony-shaped blooms of soft rose pink, with a light musk scent.

Camellia sasanqua ‘Jennifer Susan’ is a large, bushy and upright shrub with a profusion of small, double peony blooms of soft pink, with a light musk scent.

Camellia reticulata 'Dream Girl' Picture courtesy horti.co.zaCamellia reticulata

Camellia reticulata is a slow growing, grey-barked shrub or tree that can grow as much as 10 to 15m in height, making it the tallest of the camellia species. The elliptical leaves are up to 11cm long, heavily serrated and dull green. The large flowers are 7 to 10cm in diameter, or larger in some cultivars, with 5 to 7 petals, or more in some cultivars, and are mostly available with red, pink and variegated blossoms, and rarely almost white. Individual petals may be indented or somewhat crinkled, giving a variety of forms to the flowers. This Camellia is susceptible to very cold weather and has a late blooming season in the southern hemisphere, blooming from August through October.

In its natural habitat in China, near the border of Yunnan and Sichuan provinces, where it is known as ‘nanshancha’, or the ‘southern mountain camellia’, it has the potential to live for 600 years, or more. The mountains of its native range are known for their mild climate, with warm and dry winters. Reticulatas are forest plants found at an elevation of approximately 1 800 to 2 500m, and are commonly found growing in open woodlands described as ‘pine scrub’, where several species of pine, together with evergreen and deciduous oaks, form an important part of the over-story, with the camellias growing underneath. On disrupted sites, Camellia reticulata and its close relatives are quite happy to be the over-story. Their dull, waxy leaves, which are better at reflecting high levels of ultra-violet light, are one of the reasons that this plant is well adapted to growing at higher elevations.

While Camellia reticulata created a horticultural stir in the Western world on at least two occasions in the last 300 years, its history in its native China goes back much further and the peak of Chinese enthusiasm for the species seems to have been during the Ming Dynasty (1368 to 1644).

In the garden reticulatas seem to prefer more light than other camellias, and in southern California, which has a mild Mediterranean climate with slightly rainy winters and dry summers, they do well in nearly full sun. However, a break from the hot afternoon sun is usually appreciated.  One of the criticisms of this group of camellias is they can become a bit ‘lanky’ but if grown in more sun the plants are more densely branched, with denser foliage.  

horti.co.za grows the beautiful Camellia reticulata ‘Dream Girl’ - a large, open shrub or small tree with very large single to semi-double, salmon pink blooms, with a light, sweet fragrance.

Camellia x williamsii 'Black Lace' Picture courtesy horti.co.zaCamellia x williamsii (Hybrid Camellia)

The large blooms of Camellia x williamsii are the first camellia hybrids and generally bloom after Camellia japonica. They are a result of crossing Camellia japonica and Camellia saluensis, and like Camellia japonica the flowers are available in shades of pink, red, and white, and come many shapes and sizes, from semi-doubles to formal doubles.

They are cold hardy like Camellia japonica and most of them are very vigorous growers and free-blooming. Williamsii hybrids are highly recommended for the garden as they bloom for an exceptionally long time, with some varieties flowering for about 4 to 5 months, starting in mid-winter right through to mid spring. Their upright growth habit and abundance of blooms makes them even more attractive than the older Camellia japonica varieties. They do best in semi-shade and are treated in the same manner as japonicas.

Camellia x williamsii cultivars include the very free flowering, large peony-formed, deep rose blooms of ‘Anticipation’, and the semi-double, orchid pink blooms of  ‘Donation’ which performs very well in cold climates. ‘Baby Bear’ is a delightful dwarf camellia with masses of tiny, single pink flowers.  

A few popular options from horti.co.za include:

Camellia x williamsii 'Pink Lace' is a compact medium sized, rounded shrub with formal blooms of mid to deep pink.

Camellia x williamsii ‘Black Lace’ is a compact, medium sized shrub with upright growth. It produces formal double flowers with a deep blackish red colour and a paler centre.

Camellia x williamsii ‘Lavender Prince’ has an open upright growth habit, and large semi- double, orchid pink blooms.

Camellia sasanqua 'Jennifer Susan' Picture courtesy horti.co.zaIn the Garden:

Camellias are ideal for gardens small and large, and should always be planted where their great  beauty can be admired, and because they respond well to pruning, the taller varieties are often trimmed up as small trees or trained as standard ‘lollipop’ trees. You can use them for topiary, espalier them against a wall, or drape them over an arbour. Shrubby cultivars are often used as formal hedging plants, or informal screens. Pruning will reduce the numbers of flowers produced, but hedges of camellia still produce a lovely display of blooms in season.

There are camellia varieties available for almost any garden situation, and you will be happy to know they are bee friendly plants, providing sustenance when food is scarce. Camellias are perfect to use as tall focal points in lawns and beds, and are gorgeous in large pots, or in above ground planters in decks. They are indispensable in all shady to sunny woodland gardens and perfect for Japanese, and water gardens. Camellias always look stunning in a mixed border where they provide autumn, winter and spring colour when little else is flowering in the garden. They also lend themselves too many architectural and garden styles, modern as well as contemporary; so whether yours is Asian, French provincial, cottage, country, formal or contemporary, there’s a camellia variety for you. Local nurseries will have a selection that is suitable for your growing region, so seek their advice before making your final selection.

As shrubs, both Camellias and Azaleas are colourful additions to any shade garden, and as they both originate from the same areas, China and Japan, they make them excellent companion plants in the garden and enjoy the same growing conditions. Other good companions for camellias include:  Japanese Maples, Magnolias, Gardenia, Yesterday Today and Tomorrow, Hydrangeas, Hostas and Ferns.

Because of their thick moist leaves, camellias act as a good fire protection barrier, and despite their adversity to drought and intense heat, the plants will generally re-sprout after being burnt in a fire.

Camellia sasanqua' Marianne' Picture courtesy horti.co.zaCultivation/Propagation:

Camellias can be grown almost throughout South Africa with the correct care. They’re not well suited to very hot, dry inland areas, but if you want to try, they will need special care, including shade and the close company of other shrubs and trees, enriched soil, and quite a lot of water.

Camellias do not tolerate salt spray, and in coastal regions they are planted more inland, in well-prepared soil, and where they are sheltered from strong winds. In very hot and humid coastal areas they prefer to grow away from the steamy coastline, at higher altitudes where it is cooler. In the winter rainfall regions they will require very well drained soil and regular watering in summer.

Camellia plants are generally extremely cold hardy, and we know that Camellia japonica is sufficiently hardy to survive the British winters, doing well in the milder climate of Cornwall, and generally, most varieties of Camellia japonica, can take surprisingly low temperatures in winter, and will tolerate short spells of 3 to 4 days with below freezing conditions. However, the flowers can be ruined by severe frost, and if frozen the buds may fall off. During severe winters the foliage may become discoloured, but will usually recover in spring. Consult with your garden centre for the correct varieties for your area, and also consider planting the beautiful Camellia sasanqua as it flowers is a lot earlier than its cousins, starting anytime from late summer and autumn, or winter, depending on the cultivar.

In cold regions your camellia plants will look a lot better if they are planted where they do not receive very early morning sun which can burn frozen buds. Also, shelter them from cold winds, and protect young plants with a covering of horticultural fleece. In these regions you will need to coax mature plants into a kind of dormancy before winter sets in, as tender new growth is more affected by cold conditions, and if stimulated in late summer or autumn to produce new growth through feeding, the plant could be adversely affected by freezing conditions, so stop feeding in late summer and also slowly reduce the amount you water.

The roots of mature plants in a garden border are relatively protected from freezing, but in very cold regions, cover them with fresh mulch. This includes potted plants, as the roots of camellias in containers are more vulnerable to winter damage because they lack the insulation of surrounding soil. Potted plants are also especially vulnerable if the soil is too wet. Protect the roots of potted specimens by wrapping the pot with several layers of plastic ‘bubble wrap’ to reach the ground and just above the rims, and tie securely. This, together with a covering of frost protection cloth will go a long way in keeping them happy over winter. Keep an eye out for the soil drying out too much, and during a frost-free period, water early in the day, if necessary.

If you follow a few basic growing rules, camellias can look quite spectacular in almost any garden – they are a lot tougher than you may think!

When growing exotic plants in our gardens, it’s always good to know their growing conditions in the wild, and to try to mimic these as much as we can, and camellias are no different. In the wild they grow in communities in the dappled shade provided by a canopy of trees, and are commonly found growing in bushy clumps between pines trees. Therefore most camellias prefer a shadier location, but there are varieties like the sasanqua types that will do well in more sun, so if in doubt, ask the experts at your local garden centre for advice.

In the wild, the fallen pine needles, which are known to be acidic, provide nutrients to the plants, so although camellias will adapt to most well drained garden soils, they really thrive if grown in slightly acidic soils with a texture that provides good drainage, with air round the surface roots.  Air around the surface roots is very important because as camellias grow they form deep roots for anchorage and a spreading fibrous root system to absorb water and nutrients, plus surface roots, which become more obvious as the plants reach maturity. These surface air roots are most important, so only mulch the surface of the soil with bark chips, and never soil. In the garden camellias thrive in acid soil with a pH of 5.8 to 6.5. PH controls the general overall health of the plant, and with an incorrect pH, nutrients may not be drawn up into the plant as needed.  If you are unsure about the pH of your garden soil, investing in a pH meter or tester kit is a good idea.

To ensure good healthy growth in the average garden, dig large individual planting holes, or if you wish to plant woodlands of camellias, rather dig the entire bed over thoroughly, incorporating plenty of organic material, like leaf litter, pine needles, acid compost and peat. Potted specimens require the same type of soil and its best to avoid cement pots as these will leach and make the soil more alkaline. In poor and sandy soils abundant enrichment of the soil will work wonders on the growth of the plant.

It is interesting to note here that wild camellias in China often grow in dense, ‘heavy’ soils with a high percentage of small clay particles. However, because they are found mostly on well drained mountain slopes and in a climate with low winter rainfall, the roots are less vulnerable to rotting.
For this reason camellias can be grown in clay soils as long as they drain well and the planting beds are well prepared as detailed above. Incorporating other materials like washed river sand will also help tremendously with drainage. If you have dense, clay soils prone to saturation, you'll need to grow your camellias in containers.

To test how well  the soil in garden beds or pots drains, water well before planting and watch to see how quickly the water drains away. Once you have established that the drainage is good, allow the wet soil to dry out a bit before planting.

As we mentioned earlier, camellias need oxygen around their surface roots to breath, and packing too much soil on top of the root mass when planting can deplete the oxygen supply to the roots, so it is imperative that camellias are planted at the proper depth.  Insert a stake into the planting hole, if required, and before removing the nursery bag, test the depth of the hole, then gently remove the nursery bag and place the plant into the planting hole, ensuring that once planted the stem will be no higher or deeper than it was when growing in its nursery bag. Fill in with soil and firm down well before watering thoroughly.

Mulching the surface of the soil with something like leaf mould, pine needles or pine bark will keep their root zones cool through the heat of summer, and will help to retain moisture, but remember that piling soil thickly over the topsoil is a ‘no-no’. Don’t dig around their roots as they have a shallow root system, and if you wish to grow other plants nearby, or a groundcover, plant them at the same time, to avoid root damage later.

Camellias, like many woody plants, stop growing in the autumn and go into a period of relative inactivity, or dormancy. The leaves stop manufacturing the sugars needed for normal activity and the sap stops moving through the plants, so feeding during the dormant season is a waste of money.
However, the burden of carrying a crop of flowers is quite a heavy one and by the end of the flowering season many camellias will be showing signs of exhaustion, and as new spring growth emerges the plants will need even more energy, so seasonal summer feeding should begin.

Camellias like a balanced diet and constantly available nutrients, and spotty feeding here and there throughout the year won’t usually do the trick if you really want a magnificent flowering plant. If your soil pH is correct you can feed with any good feeder for flowering plants, but consider purchasing a specialist camellia fertiliser, or one for acid loving plants, and feed throughout the season as recommended. For busy gardeners a slow-release fertiliser works well. Potted specimens do well with a liquid, or a slow release fertiliser. Be careful not to overfeed when the buds are swelling, and especially with fertilisers that are high in nitrogen, as this can encourage leaf growth at the expense of the flowers.

When feeding any plants with a granular fertiliser always be careful not to not apply it close to the trunk or stems as this can cause burn, and always try to use organic fertilisers as they are safe for your plants and the environment.

In their natural environments camellias receive very little water in winter when they are dormant, as most of the rain falls during the monsoon season, which starts just when temperatures rise and they come into growth in the spring. It’s a good idea to install an irrigation system to water camellias, and many enthusiasts in hot dry climates like South Africa, California and parts of Australia use irrigation systems with timers set to provide water in the evening or overnight when there is low evaporation.

Water is a vital element in camellia success or failure and overwatering could result in root rot, especially if the soil doesn’t drain well.  This is most important to bear in mind in the winter rainfall regions. On the other hand, under watering will result in poor growth and bud drop. Most flower buds form on the current year’s growth from mid-summer, and from then onwards they need a regular supply of water for the development of the flowers within the buds and for the flower stalks that attach the flowers to the stems. A break in water supply during these months may result in fallen flower buds and a lack of blooms later. Remember, camellias like water, but hate being constantly wet and soggy. It is also good to bear in mind that many camellias produce so many buds that it will often drop some, so don’t panic if you see a few or quite a lot of fallen buds, it may not be the result of incorrect care. If the plant looks happy and healthy, just let it be.

Natural rainwater is mildly acidic, which suits camellias just fine, however, if your household water supply is alkaline, say pH 8 or higher and there are times that you have to water, tap water is better than no water for short term situations, and in the summer rainfall regions this is not a problem, especially for camellias planted out in the garden.  It’s a different matter though where long, dry summers are the rule, and in these regions it would be great if rainwater can be stored for watering camellias through summer.

Camellias have naturally beautiful shapes and should need little if any pruning, unless you are growing a hedge. Cutting out the dead and weak stems can be done anytime, but if you need to trim hedges, or trim shrubs or trees whose branches extend above the outline of the plant, it is best to do this in very early spring, or right after flowering, and before new buds develop. Hedges may need additional summer clipping, and fairly rigorous pruning of sparse plants can help to encourage new growth. If the foliage of trees and large shrubs becomes too dense, limited sunlight will reach the central branches, reducing the number of flowers formed. A light prune of the inner branches will solve this problem.

Gardeners often ask if camellias can be transplanted, and the answer is yes, especially if they are still relatively small. However, large specimens, because of their complex root system, are not easily transplanted, and the procedure is done over time. Firstly, the plant should be prepared in advance by compaction of the roots in early spring. This is done by digging a deep circular trench around the plant to sever any roots growing beyond the canopy. Fill the trench with peat and prune the plant moderately to help it sustain the trauma. Only in the spring of the following year can you move the plant, possibly by wrapping the roots with a net. To keep the reduced root system consistent with the canopy you might need to gently prune once again, after transplanting. Make sure that the camellia never dries out during its preparation period, and for about 2 years after transplanting. As you can see, transplanting large camellias is not for beginners and an expert gardener is needed.

Propagation from semi-hardwood stem tip or leaf-bud cuttings taken in early summer is best. Alternate propagation methods include; seed, layering, grafting/budding.

Camellia sasanqua 'Aimee' Picture courtesy horti.co.zaProblems, Pests & Diseases:

Often the opening buds turn brown, starting at the outer edges of the petals, and the flowers drop. This common problem can be caused by a spell of very cold or rainy weather, or at the other extreme, a spell of hot, dry weather. Hot afternoon sun or very early morning sun will also burn the buds.  Another cause could be Petal Blight, for which there is no chemical control as yet, but good sanitation and housekeeping, like immediately removing infected or dropped blooms, will help.

Feed your plants regularly with an organic fertiliser during the summer but do not feed when the buds start to swell or the lush green growth will overwhelm the buds.

Too much shade reduces bud formation, whilst excessive heat and sunshine scorches fine surface roots and flower buds.

Brown marks and spotting on the leaves can be due to weather damage, e.g. frost, wind or very hot sun, especially in poorly ventilated greenhouses.

If the tips and edges of the leaves are turning brown, this is a classic symptom of over feeding. Water well to flush the excess nutrients, and if all the leaves drop, do not throw the plant out straightaway, as it may recover and produce new shoots once the chemical balance between root and soil has been restored.

If you notice the leaves on your shrub are turning yellow, it could be a sign that the soil is a little too acidic, or it may be that the roots are standing in water. Alternatively, your camellia may just need feeding. Full sun will also often bleach the leaves.

If your camellia is looking sad and dropping some leaves, do not feed it, that’s like giving a sick person a 3 course meal! First find out what’s wrong with the plant and treat accordingly, before feeding again.

If grown correctly, your camellias should suffer from hardly any serious pests or diseases, however you may encounter some problems, and prevention is better than cure, so inspect your plants regularly and spray as required.

Aphids are common garden pests and these small green, ant-like insects are usually very active in spring when new growth appears, as well as in the summer months.  The aphids feed on the plant sap and often the most common symptom of aphid infestation are ants running up and down the stems, and a black sooty mould which can be found covering the tops of leaves. Ants and aphids go hand in hand, and the ants ‘farm’ aphids for the honeydew they secrete, and in return, the ants protect the aphids against their natural predators like praying mantis and ladybirds. Organic sprays containing only canola oil, with or without garlic, or only fatty acids only, kills soft bodied insects and will safeguard beneficial predators. Try Neudosan, Vegol, or Margaret Roberts Organic Insecticide. Once treated the plant will be free of aphids and ants but will still retain these sooty black leaves, which can be pruned out, or it can be tediously wiped off each leaf - a task that will ensure that you remember to implement a preventative spraying programme against aphids next season.

Mites are actually spider mites spider mites that live and reproduce on the underside of the leaves and are visible by their faint dust like appearance and webbing.  They can be troublesome in hot, dry weather, causing the foliage to turn bronze and speckled, especially along the main vein.

Watch out for scale insects which attach themselves to the stems and the underside of the leaves, and cause the foliage to become yellow before dropping. If left untreated- it can spread to all parts of the plant and nearby plants as well.

Both spider mites and scale can be controlled with regular treatments with oil sprays or insecticides.

Camellia petal blight is a disease of the blooms that is characterized by brown splotches that can leave blooms with an undesirable appearance.  There is no cure for petal blight, but it won't kill the plant. Picking up the fallen blooms regularly will help a bit but will only minimize the problem as spores can travel by the billions up to 5 miles away!   Planting early blooming varieties can give you some relief from petal blight.

Click here to see Google images of Petal Blight

Dieback and canker are fungal diseases that affect some camellias more than others, and are more prevalent in hot, humid weather, and are spread by splashing water, wind, or unclean pruning shears.  The spores enter through wounds on the plant and can cause limbs to die, and if the plant is infected in the lower parts, the entire plant can die. These can be prevented by disinfecting pruning shears before and during pruning, and if you think you have problems with dieback, to prevent it from spreading to other plants you can spray with a fungicide, and applying a systemic fungicide to the soil should also help.

Click here to see Google images of Dieback and Canker.

Warning:

Camellia is not toxic to humans cats, dogs and horses, so you can grow them safely around curious pets and children. However, it is always advisable to supervise young children in the garden and to discourage pets from chewing on plants. Cats that chew on plant material often have uncomfortable gastrointestinal symptoms such as vomiting and/or diarrhoea. Choking is another common problem when animals consume leaves, flowers and plant stems. It is also possible for animals to have allergic reactions to certain plants, which can cause serious symptoms, so if a pet has any adverse symptoms after chewing on camellia, it may be best to consult with your veterinarian.

'Endeavour' Condensed Version:

This family of evergreen Australian shrubs and trees is well suited to many of South Africa's growing regions; and doing exceptionally well in the southern, south-western and western Cape. They will grow in dry regions if they can be watered regularly and will tolerate windy conditions, both inland and on the coast; tolerating some salt spray but performing best in a more sheltered position. They are hardy to moderate frost, but it would be wise to protect young plants in colder regions until they are established. The plants thrive in full sun and are adaptable to most garden soils, including clay.

Full Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

Callistemon is a genus of about 30 species in the Myrtle family (Myrtaceae); and is closely related to paperbarks and honey myrtles (Melaleuca). All except four species are endemic to Australia and they can be found growing from Australia's tropical north to the temperate south; with the other four species occurring in New Caledonia.

Callistemon are commonly referred to as bottlebrushes because of their cylindrical, brush like flowers resembling a traditional bottle brush. In the wild they typically favour damp or wet conditions such as along creek beds, in coastal swamps or in areas which are prone to floods; but some species are quite drought resistant.

The beautiful Crimson Bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus) was introduced to Kew Gardens in London by Joseph Banks in 1789, 'Perth Pink' Picture courtesy Steyns Nursery www.steyns-nursery.co.zaand quickly gained popularity in Europe.  A large number of bottlebrush cultivars have been developed, many of them hybrids with either Callistemon viminalis or Callistemon citrinus as one parent.

Most cultivars grown in South Africa will flower in spring and again in autumn, but climatic conditions may cause flowering at other times of the year. The obvious parts of the flower masses are actually made up of a number of individual flowers. The pollen of the flower forms on the tip of a long coloured stalk called a filament. It is these filaments which give the flower spike its colour and distinctive 'bottlebrush' shape; most are red or shades of pink to mauve, but some species are yellow, green, orange or white.

The nectar is irresistible to nectar-feeding 'Captain Cook' Picture courtesy www.steyns-nursery.co.zabirds, butterflies and insects. Woody fruits containing hundreds of tiny seeds follow the flowers and are usually held on the plant for many years before dispersing their seeds, but in some species the fruits open after about a year. Fire also stimulates the opening of the fruits in some species. The new leaves of many bottlebrushes are coloured and very ornamental; often covered with soft hairs and releasing a lovely fragrance when crushed.

In the Garden:

These beautiful low maintenance shrubs make good screening plants, windbreaks, or tall clipped or unclipped hedges; the dwarf varieties can also be clipped into small hedges. They can be espaliered as a quick wall cover; and the taller varieties, especially the weeping bottlebrush, can be trained into lovely small trees. They are wonderful in the mixed shrub border and grow beautifully in containers.

'Mauve Mist Picture courtesy www.steyns-nursery.co.zaCultivation/Propagation:

This family of evergreen Australian shrubs and trees is well suited to many of South Africa's growing regions; and doing exceptionally well in the southern, south-western and western Cape. They will grow in dry regions if they can be watered regularly and will tolerate windy conditions, both inland and on the coast; tolerating some salt spray but performing best in a more sheltered position. They are hardy to moderate frost, but it would be wise to protect young plants in colder regions until they are established.

Plants thrive in full sun and are adaptable to most garden soils, including clay.

Plants can be lightly pruned after flowering to keep them in shape and this usually entails only pruning into the new seasons 'wood', and not cutting back into the interior of the plant where there is little or no foliage. Very old specimens may sometimes regenerate from basal pruning (cutting the entire plant down right to the ground).

'Little John' Picture courtesy www.steyns-nursery.co.zaBottlebrushes are easily grown from seed sown into a well-drained seedling mix during spring and summer. The unopened fruits should be collected and stored in a warm place in a paper bag until the fine seeds are released.

Because bottlebrushes hybridise readily, if you wish to be sure that you are preserving the features of the parent plant you will need to grow your plants from cuttings; with all cultivars it is essential to propagate from cuttings to retain the form of the parent plant. Cuttings should be taken from semi-mature summer wood, or from stem tip cuttings taken in spring or early summer. Cuttings can be rooted in a mix of peat moss and coarse sand; keep moist.

(Callistemon citrinus) Red Bottlebrush, Lemon Bottlebrush

The red bottlebrush can be grown as a large shrub or small tree and is widely cultivated for its copper coloured new growth and its bright red flower-spikes. It will grow +-2 to 4m tall with almost an equal spread; and prefers acid and neutral soils, even growing in very acid soils. The leaves release a lemon scent if bruised and are a tea substitute with a delightfully refreshing flavour.

(Callistemon citrinus 'Endeavour') Crimson Bottlebrush

'Endevour' is a dense large shrub or small tree with dark green rigid leaves and brilliant scarlet flowers ; very often appearing through the year. It is an excellent hedging variety or little tree for small gardens; and grows beautifully in large pots. It is a popular choice in coastal plantings, and is quite hardy to frost once established. Plants grow to +-2 to 3m tall with an equal spread.

(Callistemon citrinus 'Mauve Mist') Mauve Bottlebrush

'Mauve Mist' produces large lilac-pink flowers and the new tip growth is pink and densely covered with silky hairs. This cultivar forms a dense shrub to a height of +-2 to 3m with an equal or slightly wider spread. It is a great feature or screening plant.

(Callistemon citrinus 'Perth Pink') Pink Bottlebrush

'Perth Pink' is a fast growing small flowering tree with lovely arching branches and attractive silvery pink new leaves and pink flowers. It will grow +-4 to 5m tall with an equal but can be trimmed back and kept as a large shrub or screening plant.  It is semi-hardy to moderate frost and will grow in full sun or semi-shade.

(Callistemon viminalis 'Captain Cook') Dwarf Red Bottlebrush

This cultivar has narrow leaves and produces masses of red brushes; it forms a dense, slightly weeping shrub 1.5 to 2m tall with an equal spread. Captain Cook is wonderful in small gardens and containers, and makes a lovely low hedge or screen. It is excellent for coastal gardens, and adapts well to inland gardens; growing in full sun or semi-shade.

(Callistemon citrinus 'Little John') Dwarf Bottlebrush

This very free flowering small shrub has pretty blue-green leaves and produces masses of crimson flowers. It is wonderful for small gardens and containers; and can be trimmed into s small hedge. It is frost hardy and grows fairly slowly to +-1 to 2m tall in full sun or semi-shade. An occasional light pruning will keep it smaller, encourage new growth a give a good flush of flowers.

(Callistemon viminalis) Weeping Red Bottlebrush

This beautiful bottlebrush is sadly now classified as an invasive plant. 

In South Africa it has been categorised by NEMBA as a Category 1b invasive plant in the Eastern Cape, KwaZulu-Natal, Limpopo and Mpumalanga; and in Category 3 in the Free State, Gauteng, North West, Northern Cape and Western Cape.

Click here to read more under Alien Invader Plants

Calliandra selloiDescription, History & Interesting Facts:

This showy evergreen plant is native to Brazil and is widely planted in warmly temperate and subtropical gardens around the world. Although it is a tropical plant it is remarkably hardy to frost, if it is planted in a protected position in the garden and is covered until established.

The unusual masses of soft pink and white flowers can appear sporadically throughout summer and autumn, and the soft fern-like foliage is also most attractive.

In the Garden:

The shuttlecock flower makes an ideal screening plant for unsightly areas of the garden, like compost heaps or refuse collection areas.

It can be clipped into a hedge or left to grow as a large informal screen.

For best results when pruning this plant, do not prune it harshly; rather prune the tips lightly and more often, this will result in a very bushy plant. This shrub will hold its own if planted in a large shrub border, and the feathery leaves are a good contrast for plants with bold foliage. It is available as a standard or 'lollipop' plant, making it perfect for small gardens.

Cultivation/Propagation:

The Shuttlecock flower will grow throughout South Africa, in all the frost free regions of both the summer and winter rainfall regions.

It needs regular watering in summer and protection from strong winds. Plant it in full sun and in good, well-drained soil.

The shuttlecock flower is hardy to moderate frost once established but will lose leaves in winter in cold regions. The plants grow quickly to +-1.5m tall and +-1.5m wide, and will tolerate drought once established.

Pruning can be done anytime in summer, after flowering.

New plants can be propagated from seeds sown in spring, or from cuttings taken in autumn.

Buddleja auriculata will attract butterfliesDescription, History & Interesting Facts:

This evergreen South African shrub occurs naturally on mountain slopes, in rocky ravines, and on forest margins, from Eastern Cape to Zimbabwe.

It has a graceful weeping habit and will grow quickly to about 4m tall and 4m wide, and the beautiful glossy, dark green leaves have silver undersides. It is grown for its profuse spikes of tiny, tubular, sweetly-scented cream, orange or lilac flowers from mid-winter to spring. The fruit is a tiny, creamy brown capsule that splits at the tip. The flowers attract butterflies and myriads of other insects to the garden, which in turn will attract insectivorous birds like the southern boubou and Cape robin.

In the Garden:

This large growing shrub is not recommended for small gardens but is excellent for medium to large properties and farms, making an excellent screening plant, windbreak or informal hedge. It looks especially attractive planted near to a large dam or pond and is often used in the mixed shrub border.

Buddleja auriculata Cultivation/Propagation:

Weeping Sage grows throughout the country, but prefers areas with cold winters. It is also suitable for hot gardens, tolerating temperatures from -5°C to 38°C. In the Western Cape it often flowers earlier and has a more upright growth habit. It is hardy to frost and tolerates drought, making it a great water wise plant.

Weeping Sage is not fussy about soil but will benefit from added compost and an occasional feeding with a balanced fertiliser. Plant it in full sun, and water it regularly in summer for best results, but less in winter. It can be pruned if necessary after it has flowered; cutting the flowering branches right back to the old wood.

Plants are easily propagated from hardwood cuttings.

See under Trees

See under Climbers

Chaenomeles japonica 'Pink Lady' Picture courtesy Green Acres Nursery CaliforniaThe beautiful Flowering Quince is not very easy to find locally anymore, but they can still be found in many gardens and parks, so I have left them in my plant index for identification purposes.

The Flowering Quince is native to eastern Asia in Japan, China and Korea and is related to the Quince. It forms a rounded, bushy shrub with erect and spreading, spiny branches, growing about 2.5m tall and 2m wide in ten years, but can reach 3.5m tall and 2.5m wide at maturity.

It loses its leaves in winter and produces beautiful clusters of red, pink, apricot or white blossoms close to the bare stems in mid-winter, for up to six weeks. The flowers are followed by small quince-like fruits in summer. The fruits are not ornamental but have high pectin content and may be used for jelly.

The shrubs send up suckers from below ground level; spreading out on a continuous basis, forming large woody-stemmed clumps.

The branches and branchlets are all tipped with sharp spines, making it ideal to grow as a security hedge, especially in the coldest parts of the country.

Chaenomeles japonica 'Red' Pictures courtesy Green Acres Nursery CaliforniaThis shrub is very hardy to frost and grows well throughout the country, except those very hot and humid regions. Water it regularly in summer during dry spells, especially in the winter rainfall regions. Plant it in a sunny position, in fertile soil and apply a dressing of bone meal in spring.

Prune it when it has finished flowering to keep it tidy.

Propagate from soft tip cuttings in summer.

Bauhinia galpinii. Picture courtesy Carl E Lewis Condensed Version:

In the garden the pride-of-De-Kaap is invaluable because it can be trained as a climber or pruned into a medium to large shrub, or even a small tree. Its attractive, broad green leaves resemble butterfly wings. The masses of orchid-like flowers are quite spectacular, and the colour of the flowers can vary considerably from vivid crimson to deep apricot and a dark brick-red, appearing during the summer months from September to March, but it will also flower sporadically throughout the rest of the year. Long brown seedpods follow the flowers and eventually split with a loud crack to disperse the seeds.

If planted on open ground it requires space, and even if it is regularly pruned, and is not really suitable for small gardens. Thankfully it does well in pots so people with small gardens can still grow one.

The Pride-of-De-Kaap flourishes in all the frost free regions of the country, thriving in areas with moderately high summer rainfall, and where the winters are dry and cool, but not freezing. It can take humidity and does well in coastal regions, but in the winter rainfall regions it must be watered during the summer months and needs protection from extremely strong winds. Inland it is semi-hardy to moderate frost as long as it is planted in a protected position like against a north facing wall in the garden, and is covered for the first two to three years of growth. In cold regions it is best to plant in spring or early summer, to maximize establishment before winter arrives.

It is largely evergreen but may become deciduous, depending on where it is cultivated. This vigorous plant loves full sun but will take some light shade, and grows quickly, varying in height from 2 to 3m, with a 5m spread, if left unpruned.

The Pride-of-De-Kaap requires moderate watering to keep it looking at its best in the garden, but once established it will tolerate long dry periods, making it essential in water-wise gardens.

It adapts to most garden soils, thriving in well-drained and nutrient rich sandy, peaty or loamy soil, with a more acidic pH. Soils that are too alkaline may hamper nutrient absorption and cause leaf yellowing. It will also tolerate poor soil conditions, but will benefit greatly from the addition of compost to the planting hole.  It also tolerates slightly clay, moisture retentive soils. This plant responds well to feeding with a balanced fertiliser in spring or early summer, and mulching the roots will help to conserve moisture.

Pruning can be done at any time, but is often done in winter, or after it has finished flowering.

Full Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

This magnificent South African tree (SA Tree No: 208.2) is also called “Motshiwiriri”, “Mutswiriri”, “Tswiriri”, “Kisololo”, “Umvangatane”, and “Usololo” It is one of the most resplendent of its genus and grows wild in northern KwaZulu-Natal, Mpumalanga and the Northern Province, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Swaziland and into tropical Africa, occurring in predominately moderate to high rainfall areas, and from elevations of about 200m to just above 1 000m. It can be found in thickets, in bushveld and scrub, in hot, rocky places close to termite mounds, and along the banks of streams.

The pride-of-De-Kaap is multi-stemmed and in the wild it tends to clamour like a climber through the trees and shrubs in the dense thickets where it occurs, but in the garden it is invaluable because it can be trained as a climber or pruned into a medium to large shrub, or even a small tree. It is also remarkably long lived, usually living 20 to 35 years, but can reach a ripe old age of up to 120 years!

The Pride-of-De-Kaap takes its name from the De Kaap Valley near Barberton, south of Nelspruit in Mpumalanga, where it grows in profusion. However, it is quite widespread and can be found growing wild right across the moister bushveld areas of South Africa.

The bark varies in colour from light grey-brown to darker grey-brown, and has a smooth, yet somewhat powdery texture, and its attractive, broad green leaves resemble butterfly wings. The masses of orchid-like flowers are quite spectacular, and the colour of the flowers can vary considerably from vivid crimson to deep apricot and a dark brick-red, appearing during the summer months from September to March, but it will also flower sporadically throughout the rest of the year. Long brown seedpods follow the flowers and eventually split with a loud crack to disperse the seeds.

Its flowers are of value to pollinators, including nectar eating bird species, and certain birds like Louries also eat the flower buds, and the densely scrambling twigs provide a safe nesting site for smaller birds.  The leaves and pods are also a source of food for several moth and butterfly species, and the two-tailed pasha or foxy emperor butterfly (Charaxes jasius) and the orange-barred playboy butterfly (Deudorix diocles) use it as a host plant and are dependent on Bauhinia galpinii, as their larvae eat the leaves and later pupate on the plants. It also provides fodder for black rhino and several species of antelope.

Uses:

Farm animals and livestock like sheep and goats can safely browse the leaves and twigs, and the long and flexible branches are used by local people for the construction of roof trusses for their huts. Even the smaller branches are utilised, and are woven together by local women to make baskets.

In the Garden:

This species is a very popular garden plant because of its beautiful flowers and long flowering period, however, if planted on open ground it requires space, and even if it is regularly pruned, and is not really suitable for small gardens. Thankfully it does well in pots so people with small gardens can still grow one. It also makes a lovely bonsai subject.

In medium-sized gardens it can be pruned regularly to keep it small, but in large gardens, schools, estates, parks and office parks it really comes into its own, and can be used to great effect to form a good barrier plant along fences and boundaries. And, if given a bit of assistance, it will also scramble up a trellis or over a pergola, and if allowed to cascade over a wall it is quite spectacular.

It is resistant to strong winds and makes a sturdy windbreak, working well as either as a formal or informal hedge or screening plant. Because it is water-wise it is a good choice for large rockeries. Its upright yet sprawling growth habit makes it invaluable to plant on a bank, but it can be used just as effectively in a mixed shrub border, or even as a specimen plant.

Because it does not have an aggressive root system, it is safe to plant it in close proximity to permanent structures.

Because it acts as a magnet for butterflies, it is a ‘must have’ for butterfly and wildlife gardens.

Cultivation/Propagation:

The Pride-of-De-Kaap flourishes in all the frost free regions of the country, thriving in areas with moderately high summer rainfall, and where the winters are dry and cool, but not freezing. It can take humidity and does well in coastal regions, but in the winter rainfall regions it must be watered during the summer months and needs protection from extremely strong winds. Inland it is semi-hardy to moderate frost as long as it is planted in a protected position like against a north facing wall in the garden, and is covered for the first two to three years of growth. In cold regions it is best to plant in spring or early summer, to maximize establishment before winter arrives.

It is largely evergreen but may become deciduous, depending on where it is cultivated. This vigorous plant loves full sun but will take some light shade, and grows quickly, varying in height from 2 to 3m, with a 5m spread, if left unpruned.

The Pride-of-De-Kaap requires moderate watering to keep it looking at its best in the garden, but once established it will tolerate long dry periods, making it essential in water-wise gardens.

It adapts to most garden soils, thriving in well-drained and nutrient rich sandy, peaty or loamy soil, with a more acidic pH. Soils that are too alkaline may hamper nutrient absorption and cause leaf yellowing. It will also tolerate poor soil conditions, but will benefit greatly from the addition of compost to the planting hole.  It also tolerates slightly clay, moisture retentive soils. This plant responds well to feeding with a balanced fertiliser in spring or early summer, and mulching the roots will help to conserve moisture.

Pruning can be done at any time, but is often done in winter, or after it has finished flowering.
It is mostly grown from seed which germinates readily, but it can also be propagated from semi-hardwood cuttings taken in mid-summer.

If growing from cuttings, plant them in trays filled with a well-drained mixture of equal parts river sand and rich loam or compost, and mist them often.

Seeds are generally sown in early spring, and it is advisable to soak the seeds in warm water overnight to help soften the hard outer layers of the seeds which inhibit germination. Sow into deep seedlings trays filled with a well-drained mixture of equal parts river sand and rich loam or compost. Place the trays in a warm, temperate and brightly lit area and keep the soil moist. Germination usually occurs within a few weeks, and as soon as the seedlings have developed their first set of true leaves they can be transplanted into their individual containers.   

Problems, Pests & Diseases:

Bauhinia galpinii is susceptible to attacks from aphids which do not do much damage, but because it is also susceptible to borers, it should be checked regularly for signs of infestation.

Warning:

Bauhinia galpinii is not listed as poisonous but it is always advisable to prevent pets from chewing on plants, and small children should always be supervised in the garden.

Dodonaea viscosa. Picture courtesy Roger HootonDescription, History & Interesting Facts:

The Sand Olive is indigenous to South Africa but its centre of origin is believed to be Australia, where it occurs in all the states. It is widely distributed throughout the southern hemisphere, extending to sub-tropical and tropical areas of the northern hemisphere.

It grows wild along both the east and west coasts of South Africa and is known for its resiliency and tenacity, tolerating a wide range of growing conditions. This plant is highly variable in growth habit, depending on the climate in which it is grown and occurs as a small to large, multi-stemmed shrub; or a small tree with a single stem. It is a prolific colonising species and is one of the first plants to establish itself on disturbed ground. 

(Dodonaea thunbergianna) is a smaller species that is very similar in appearance.

Uses:

Dodonaea viscose leaves are sold in local markets for medicinal purposes in South Africa. It is used as an herbal remedy for many ailments and an infusion of the roots was used by the Hottentots in the treatment of fevers. The roots are taken by women in East Africa to stimulate milk production after giving birth and to treat dysmenorrhoea and irregular menstruation.

Its uses in traditional medicine, is reflected in some of the plant's pharmacological properties. Essential oils and extracts from the leaves showed antibacterial and hypotensive activities. The isolated coumarin fraxetin has attracted attention as an anti-oxidant, and in tests with mice it displayed analgesic properties.

Dodonaea viscosa has many uses in traditional medicine worldwide and is administered orally or as poultice to treat a great variety of ailments. Trachoma is treated with applications of leaf juice and the leaves are used to relieve itching. A lotion is made to treat sprains, bruises, burns and wounds. Powdered leaves are given to expel roundworms and stem or leaf infusions are used to treat sore throats. Root infusions are used to treat colds and the stems and leaves are used to treat fever. Digestive system disorders like indigestion, ulcers, diarrhoea and constipation are treated with an orally-administered decoction of either the leaves or roots. Always consult your physician before starting a home treatment programme.

Dodonaea viscosa. Picture courtesy Roger HootonIn the Garden:

In the garden it can be grown as a shrub or small tree, making it perfect for small gardens. The summer flowers are insignificant but the papery, three-winged seed pods are extremely attractive, starting off green and shading to a reddish-burgundy and then to brown and tan. It has shiny, bright green, sticky leaves and a blackish bark. Planted in the mixed shrubbery border, it will add both interest and colour. It makes a great specimen tree and is often used as an informal screen or hedge.

Cultivation/Propagation:

Known for its resiliency and tenacity, the Sand Olive grows in gardens throughout the country. It thrives in hot, dry regions and is hardy to all but extremely severe frost.

It is a good choice to plant in exposed, windy sites; both inland and at the coast and grows in alkaline, well-drained, sandy soil but will grow in any well drained garden soil.

It loves full sun but will also grow in light shade. If watered regularly in the garden and left un-pruned, it will grow quickly to about 5m tall and 2.5m wide.

 Prune it when the seed pods fade, to keep it smaller. For best results in the garden water it moderately during dry spells and feed it with a balanced organic fertiliser in spring.

Propagate from semi-hardwood cuttings in spring.

Dovyalis caffra. Picture courtesy Rebecca AshDescription, History & Interesting Facts:

 This dense, spreading, indigenous plant varies in growth habit form from a shrub, growing about 3 m tall, or an 8m tall tree with a thick crown, 2.5 to 3.5m wide. At the coast it occurs in hot, dry habitats in scrub, bush and dune forests. Inland it occurs in open bush, often in acacia woodland and near termite mounds. It is very common in the Eastern Cape and is also found in the Transkei, KwaZulu-Natal, Mpumalanga, Gauteng and the Northern Province. 

The creamy-green flowers appear in summer and are sweetly-scented but not particularly attractive, but the bright orange-yellow fruit puts on quite a show in late summer. They are relished by humans, monkeys, baboons, antelope and other mammals. Birds such as louries and the black-eyed bulbuls love the fruits. 

Plants are dioecious, which is to say, they have female and male flowers on separate plants. Only female plants bear fruit, so a few specimens should be planted to ensure a supply of fruits.

Uses:

The use of fruits from indigenous plants is receiving more and more prominence due to the opportunities it presents to rural based economies. 

The fruit is rich in vitamin C and makes a great tasting jelly or jam.

The Kei Apple has light green leaves that are thick and shiny and are often used as fodder for livestock.

The stems and branches are armed with spines between 3 and 5cm long, making it a perfect barrier plant for farms and large properties.

Older specimens often have corky bark that is deeply fissured. The timber is white and heavy and is suitable for craft work.

In the Garden:

The roots are non-aggressive and will not damage foundations and pathways. The Kei Apple is a very useful plant to grow as a hedge or screen in regions where low rainfall, and hot days, followed by cold nights, make gardening difficult. To grow as a hedge plant about 1m apart and prune as required. It is also a popular bonsai tree.

Cultivation/Propagation:

Kei Apple Fruit. Picture courtesy Tatiana GerusAlthough the Kei Apple thrives in full sun in the warm coastal areas of the country it will withstand drought and moderate frost once established. Protect young plants from frost and water regularly until they are established. This evergreen will lose most of its leaves in winter, in cold regions.

It loves sandy, well-drained soil but will grow in any garden soil that drains well. Give it an application of complete organic fertiliser in spring. 

The Kei-apple is easily propagated from seed but the fruits must be ripe before they are collected. Clean the seed and allow it to dry before planting. Sow into well drained soil, pressing it into the soil until it is level with the surface of the soil and then cover with fine layer of sand. Fresh seeds will germinate within 21 to 31 days.  It is also easily propagated from hardwood cuttings.