Thursday, 25 July 2013 00:28

Sunflower - Helianthus annuus

Ballad Helianthus. Picture courtesy Ball Horticultural CompanyBallad Helianthus. Picture courtesy Ball Horticultural CompanySunflowers originate from North America and are grown extensively for their seeds, to produce vegetable oils and margarines. Many indigenous American peoples used the sunflower as the symbol of the sun deity, including the Aztecs and the Incas.

When the plants die down collect the seeds to store and eat in winter but do leave a few in the garden for the birds to enjoy. To harvest sunflower seeds, cut the flower head off when the back is brown and no trace of green remains. Hang upside down in a warm, dry, well-ventilated place and scrape the seeds off when the back of the flower head is papery dry. Roast or eat raw.

Sunflowers grow quickly and easily and will flower for up to 10 weeks in summer. They are perfect for children to grow and will delight them with their large cheerful blooms that turn towards the sun throughout the day. There are both dwarf and tall strains and the modern hybrids are available in shades of golden-yellow, lemon-yellow, orange and red. Annual sunflowers have numerous forms, both single and double, and are divided into groups, according to their height and the shape of the flowers. The taller garden varieties vary in height from 1.2 to 3m tall and the dwarf varieties from 30 to 60cm tall.

Plant the tall varieties in small clumps in mixed beds of tall plants, as solitary subjects or as a hedge, to mask walls and fences and to demarcate or separate large areas. Fill pots with the dwarf varieties and use them in the mixed flower border. Sunflowers are popular cut-flowers and last well in a vase.

Sunflowers thrive in full sun and any neutral to slightly alkaline soil. Add lime if your soil is acidic. The tall varieties may need staking and protection from strong wind. They are intolerant of wet and cold soil and require ample nutrients to grow and flower well. Apply a balanced fertiliser several times during the growing period until the flowers appear. Water the plants regularly during dry periods.

Seeds are sown in spring and summer when all danger of frost is over. Sow into pots or directly into garden beds where they are to grow. Plant the seeds about 3cm deep. They germinate best in soil temperatures of 20 to 22°C and should bloom within 7 to 11 weeks after sowing, depending on the variety.

Thursday, 25 July 2013 00:28

Bells of Ireland - Moluccella laevis

Bells of Ireland. Picture courtesy DiegoBells of Ireland. Picture courtesy Diego

Condensed Version:

Bells of Ireland may not be so easy to find, but certain seed suppliers do still stock them. So, if you spot a packet of seed or a tray of seedlings buy them, you won’t be disappointed!  They add vertical interest to the flower border with their tall spikes of unusual apple-green, bell-shaped sheaths which surround the tiny white flowers, and smell like lemon and vanilla. Blooming usually starts in mid-summer, with the calyces remaining attractive all summer and then turning beige and somewhat papery as the seeds begin to form. Even the rounded, pale green leaves with slightly scalloped edges are unusual, growing in tufts above and below each spike. A flower arrangers dream, florists use bells of Ireland in both fresh and dry arrangements. The plants are also quite easy to cultivate and grow quickly to +-60 to 75cm tall and 22 to 30cm wide.

Seeds can be sown directly into garden beds in spring when all danger of frost is over, or they can be started earlier in seedling trays, about 8 to 10 weeks before you need to plant them outside.

Bells of Ireland are very adaptable and heat tolerant, but do not perform well in climates which are both hot and humid. They grow best in regions that receive high summer rainfall, but will grow in drier areas if they can be watered regularly. If they are planted where there is protection from strong winds, the flowers should not need staking.

Bells of Ireland love full sun but will take light shade, and although they will adapt to most garden soils which drain well, they thrive in sandy, well-drained soil that has been enriched with some compost. Water your plants regularly, never allowing the soil to dry out totally, but not allowing it to become soggy either.

Full Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

It's fascinating to watch how gardening fashions change, and especially the flower colours and varieties used. Bells of Ireland have been cultivated since 1570, and the flowers are a symbol of good luck. Once they were once immensely popular and cultivated in cottage and wild meadow gardens, but then their popularity waned as other annual stars took centre stage. Now, with the enormous interest in floral art, bells of Ireland have once again gained popularity with gardeners who like to pick for the vase. Another contributing factor to their renewed popularity was the trend of using only shades of green in the garden, with touches of white and grey, rather than many bright colours, a trend which remains popular today.

Bells of Ireland may still not be so easy to find, but certain seed suppliers do still stock them. So, if you spot a packet of seed or a tray of seedlings buy them, you won’t be disappointed! These attention-grabbers will never fail to fascinate and will have all your family and friends commenting on them. Besides, the vertical interest they add to the flower border with their tall spikes of unusual apple-green bell-shaped sheaths which surround the tiny white flowers and smell like lemon and vanilla, is dramatic. Blooming usually starts in mid-summer, with the calyces remaining attractive all summer and then turning beige and somewhat papery as the seeds begin to form. Even the rounded, pale green leaves with slightly scalloped edges are unusual, growing in tufts above and below each spike. Bells of Ireland are also quite easy to cultivate and grow quickly to +-60 to 75cm tall and 22 to 30cm wide.

A flower arrangers dream, florists use bells of Ireland in both fresh and dry arrangements. To dry them, cut the flower stems on a dry day when the flowers are fully open, but prior to seed ripening. Tie the cut stems into small bunches and hang them upside in a dry airy place until they are fully dry.

Bells of Ireland originate in Western Asia, Turkey, Syria and The Caucasus, and not in Ireland, as the common name suggests; and the genus name Moluccella is in reference to the Moluccca Islands off Indonesia where plants were once thought to be native. Additional common names include: Lady-in-the-bathtub; Shell Flower and Molucca Balm.

In the Garden:

The tall spikes of bells of Ireland give dramatic vertical interest to the back of the flower border and are essential for all cutting gardens. They remain charming in woodland and cottage gardens and also do well in containers, offering a vertical component when combined with other annuals. The light green colour complements any white flowers or purple-leaved plants, and can be used in monochromatic schemes with other green or green-flowered plants. They even look interesting late in the season when the old spikes become dry and bleached.

Cultivation/Propagation:

If sown in spring, these fast-growing plants will bloom for several months from mid to late summer. They are very adaptable and heat tolerant, but do not perform well in climates which are both hot and humid. They grow best in regions that receive high summer rainfall, but will grow in drier areas if they can be watered regularly. If they are planted where there is protection from strong winds, the flowers should not need staking.

Bells of Ireland love full sun but will take light shade, and although they will adapt to most garden soils which drain well, they thrive in sandy, well-drained soil that has been enriched with some compost. Water your plants regularly, never allowing the soil to dry out totally, but not allowing it to become soggy either.

They will seed themselves freely, so deadhead regularly if you do not want volunteer seedlings next season.

Seeds can be sown directly into garden beds in spring when all danger of frost is over, or they can be started earlier in seedling trays, about 8 to 10 weeks before you need to plant them outside. Germination can be slow but refrigerating the seeds for 5 days before sowing by placing them in a moistened piece of kitchen towel-roll and then placing them in the fridge, will help speed it up. If sowing into seedling trays, ensure that the soil has perfect drainage, and do not cover the seeds with soil as they need light to germinate. Place the trays in a cool place, keeping the soil moist but not soggy. Germination is best in soil temperatures between 13 to 18°C, and can take anything from 14 to 35 days.  Once germination does occur you can move the trays to a warmer place.

Pests & Diseases:

Bells of Ireland are not affected by any serious insect or disease problems.  

Warning:

Bells of Ireland are listed as non-toxic but the foliage is prickly and can be irritating to the skin.

Cornflower. Picture courtesy Stig MadsenCornflower. Picture courtesy Stig MadsenCondensed Version:

Blue is the most sought-after colour in the garden because there are relatively few true blue garden flowers, so the common blue cornflower is extremely popular. However, plant breeders have developed a whole range of gorgeous cornflower types and colours, which include red, pink, lilac and white varieties. These new strains of cornflower flower all summer and the varieties vary in height from about 40 to 90cm tall, but remain slender with a width of about 25cm. Their rich shades of blue, complimented by soft grey-green leaves, are much sought after, both for garden decoration and for the cut-flower industry. Butterflies and bees adore them, and so do gardeners because they are cheap and easy to grow from seed, so remember to put cornflowers on your gardening shopping list.

Cornflowers grow well throughout South Africa, except for the very humid regions of the country where they are susceptible to fungal diseases like powdery mildew. Generally they are sown from early to mid-spring for early summer blooms, but because the seedlings are hardy to frost, in climates with moderate winters they can also be sown in autumn. Generally, as long as the seedlings have time to establish before the frost sets in, they will develop strong roots during the cool months, allowing them to form bigger plants which will flower up to six weeks earlier than those sown in spring.  
Cornflowers love full sun but will take some shade, and if you don’t want to stake the taller growing varieties, ensure that they are sited where they are protected from strong winds. They will adapt to most garden soils, even poor soils, but in the garden, ensure that the soil is fertile and well-drained.

Seeds are best sown directly into well-prepared garden beds, so dig the soil over well and add your organic matter, but don't add any fertiliser. Weed and rake the bed over, removing any stones that might get in the way of the seedlings. If you're not sure what the seedlings look like, you may want to sow them in lines so you can distinguish them from the weeds. Alternatively, scatter the seed randomly and rake it in. Give the area a good watering and keep the soil moist until the seedlings appear two to four weeks later. Thin them out so that each seedling has about 35cm of space around it.  

Cornflower Polka Dot mix. Picture courtesy www.ballstraathof.co.zaCornflower Polka Dot mix. Picture courtesy www.ballstraathof.co.zaFull Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

These old-fashioned favourites still hold their own in the flower garden, and because they are so easy to grow, are highly recommended for children or beginners to include in their gardens. The cornflower has a cheerful and unfussy beauty that is just as appealing to beneficial insect life in the garden as it is to the garden's human inhabitants. Flowering in late winter and spring, Centaurea cyanus is native to temperate Europe where it once grew vigorously, together with red poppies, as a weed in corn fields, providing a rich patchwork of gold, red, and large drifts of electric blue. In the broader sense of the word, "corn" referred to grains such as wheat, barley, rye, or oats, hence its common name.

Cornflowers flourished in the United Kingdom since the Iron Age, but increased agriculture and the use of herbicides contributed greatly to their decline in the wild. Sadly, today cornflowers are rare in their natural habitat, but luckily they remain firm favourites with gardeners and are still abundant in cultivation throughout Europe and the world, including North America and parts of Australia, where they have escaped cultivation and have naturalised themselves.

Blue is the most sought-after colour in the garden because there are relatively few true blue garden flowers, so the common blue cornflower remains extremely popular. However, plant breeders have developed a whole range of gorgeous cornflower types and colours, which include red, pink, lilac and white varieties. These new strains of cornflower flower all summer and the varieties vary in height from about 40 to 90cm tall, but remain slender with a width of about 25cm. Their rich shades of blue, complimented by soft grey-green leaves, are much sought after, both for garden decoration and for the cut-flower industry. Butterflies and bees adore them, and so do gardeners because they are cheap and easy to grow from seed, so remember to put cornflowers on your gardening shopping list.

Cornflowers have a rich history in folklore and symbolism and the name Centaurea comes from the Greek Centaur - a mythological creature with the upper body of a human and the lower body and legs of a horse. In Greek mythology Chiron the centaur was known for his knowledge and skill with medicine, and credited with the discovery of botany and pharmacy, the science of herbs and medicine. He used cornflowers to counteract the effect of arrows tipped with poison from the Hydra, the many-headed monster believed to guard Hades or the Underworld. Cyanus means blue or azure, the colour of cornflowers.

Cornflowers are also known by the names bluebottle, blue bonnet, bluet, and bachelor’s buttons, and according to folklore, bachelors who were in love would wear a cornflower in their lapel button holes and if it faded quickly this meant that the object of their desire did not love them. If the flower lasted, the love was returned. Another superstition was that if cornflowers were brought into the house, the bread would go mouldy.

It has been the national flower of Estonia since 1968, where it symbolizes daily bread, and was also one of the national symbols of Germany, partly due to the story that when Queen Louise of Prussia was fleeing Berlin, pursued by Napoleon's forces, she hid her children in a field of cornflowers and kept them quiet by weaving wreaths for them from the flowers. The flower thus became identified with Prussia, not least because it was the same colour as the Prussian military uniform. After the unification of Germany in 1871, the cornflower went on to become a symbol of the country as a whole. For this reason, in Austria the blue cornflower is a political symbol for pan-German and rightist ideas. Members of the Freedom Party wore it at the opening of the Austrian parliament in 2006.

Cornflowers used to grow abundantly in France, and like the poppy, were often the only sign of life and colour amidst the mud and desolation of WW1. Les poilus, as the French soldiers were known, suffered terribly and survivors trailed home maimed, mutilated and mentally traumatised. Two French nurses, Suzanne Lenhardt and Charlotte Malleterre, recognised the need to keep them  active and started a workshop where ex-soldiers created cornflower lapel badges from blue tissue paper to sell to the public, called "Le Bleuet de France". In ‘flower-speak’, the ‘Bleuet’ or cornflower symbolises delicacy and innocence, and used to describe the fresh, young soldiers of WW1, whose bright blue uniforms stood out in sharp contrast to the grey and muddy misery of the trenches. The initiative caught on and spread slowly throughout Franc, and in 1928 French President Gaston Doumergue publicly gave his support to the Bleuet as the symbol of the 11th November 1918 armistice. In 1935, the sale of the Bleuets on Remembrance Day finally became official throughout France, and they are still sold on November 11th, and the proceeds continue to support veterans and their families to this day.

Many artists have tried to capture the beauty of the cornflower on canvas, including Vincent Van Gogh, in his "Wheat Field with Cornflowers". A blue cornflower design was used by Corning Glass Works for the initial release of Corning Ware Pyroceram Cookware. Its popularity in the United States, Canada, United Kingdom and Australia was so high that it became the symbol of Corning Glass Works. It is still sometimes worn by notable old Harrovians of Harrow School, an independent boarding school for boys in Harrow, London, England. The blue cornflower is also the symbol for motor neurone disease and amyotrophic lateral sclerosis.

Uses:

Cornflowers have been used and prized historically to produce blue dye, and considered a beneficial weed whose edible flowers are still used as pretty garnishes for salads and desserts. They are also still used as an ingredient in tea blends and herbal teas, as in the famous Lady Grey blend of Twining’s. Cornflowers are good for the eyes and skin and are often found in skin care products, shampoos and ointments today. The powdered flowers are mixed into a paste to help with bruising, and as a douche can help clear up candida.

In the Garden:

When we think of cornflowers, we imagine running through vast fields of them, but you don't need a huge area to grow them, in fact, they can even be grown in containers. Cornflowers are certainly good value for money because they are sown directly into garden beds and will flower for months in spring, summer and into autumn. Bees, butterflies and other beneficial garden insects are also fond of cornflowers, and the seeds are much loved by small seed-eating birds.

Once established in a bed, cornflowers will self-seed and return year after year, bringing enduring cheer to a low maintenance area of the garden. They will hold their own in any flower garden but are a 'must-have' for all cottage or wild meadow gardens. Sow them next to other annuals like marigolds or poppies for a really bright show, or make a statement by mixing them with ornamental grasses.
Just like sweet peas, cornflowers are sought after for flower arranging, and if you want them to flower all summer, you need to cut the flowers constantly - the more you pick, the more they bloom. They are also one of the easiest flowers to dry or press, keeping their colour well.
 
Cultivation/Propagation:

Cornflowers grow well throughout South Africa, except for the very humid regions of the country where they are susceptible to fungal diseases like powdery mildew. Generally they are sown from early to mid-spring for early summer blooms, but because the seedlings are hardy to frost, in climates with moderate winters they can also be sown in autumn. In the wild they germinate in autumn and overwinter well, however, in severely cold regions, some seedlings may perish, so if you are making an autumn sowing don’t thin out your seedlings until the spring. As long as the seedlings have time to establish before the frost sets in, they will develop strong roots during the cool months, allowing them to form bigger plants which will flower up to six weeks earlier than those sown in spring.  
Cornflowers love full sun but will take some shade, and if you don’t want to stake the taller growing varieties, ensure that they are sited where they are protected from strong winds. They will adapt to most garden soils, even poor soils, but in the garden, ensure that the soil is fertile and well-drained. Enrich your soil with organic matter if necessary, so that it holds plenty of moisture in spring and summer, but doesn't become waterlogged.

Seeds are best sown directly into well-prepared garden beds, so dig the soil over well and add your organic matter, but don't add any fertiliser. Weed and rake the bed over, removing any stones that might get in the way of the seedlings. If you're not sure what the seedlings look like, you may want to sow them in lines so you can distinguish them from the weeds. In this case, with the edge of a hand fork make grooves 6mm deep and 35cm apart, and place the seeds along each groove at 35cm intervals. Then run your hand over the area, so the sides of the groove fall in over the seeds. Alternatively, scatter the seed randomly and rake it in. Give the area a good watering and keep the soil moist until the seedlings appear two to four weeks later. Thin them out so that each seedling has about 35cm of space around it.  

Seeds can also be sown in seedling trays and germinate best when the soil temperatures are between 18 and 21°C. Cover the seeds with 1cm of vermiculite or germination mix and place the trays in a shady but very well-lit position. Germination will take 2 to 4 days and the plants will flower about 10 to 12 weeks after sowing. Successive sowings can extend the blooming period into summer.
Fertilisation is not necessary but an occasional feeding, along with other garden flowers won’t harm them. Cutting the flowers often for the vase and deadheading will keep the plants blooming for much longer, and if cornflowers are happy in the garden, they will self-seed themselves, especially if the soil is disturbed.

Problems, Pests & Diseases:

If grown correctly cornflowers are generally pest and disease free, but look out for the usual summer culprits like aphids, which can be washed off the plants with a strong spray of water, or an insecticidal soap.

Leafhoppers cause injury to the leaves and stunt growth, and because they also spread diseases it is recommended that your remove any plant debris before spraying with an insecticidal soap.

Spider mites are about the size of a grain of pepper and may be red, black, brown or yellow. They are prevalent during dry and hot summer spells and suck on the plant juices causing the foliage to turn yellow and become dry and stippled, and there is often webbing visible on the plant.  Spider mites multiply rapidly and need to be sprayed regularly with an appropriate insecticide to break their breeding cycle.

Stalk borer larvae tunnel up and down inside the plant stem causing the plants to wilt. By the time the plant wilts it is too late to save it. The larva is 1.5 inches long, greyish brown with one dorsal stripe and two lateral stripes on each side. The lateral stripes on the front half are interrupted and the lower brown stripe extends forward onto the side of the head. Unfortunately, the plant and any debris and weeds growing nearby will have to be removed and destroyed.

Damping off is one of the most common problems when starting plants from seed. The seedling emerges and appears healthy; then it suddenly wilts and dies for no obvious reason. Damping off is caused by a fungus that is active when there is abundant moisture and the soil and air temperatures are above 20°C. Typically this indicates that the soil is too wet or contains high amounts of nitrogen fertiliser. To prevent this, keep the seedlings moist but do not overwater, also avoid over-fertilising and thin the seedlings out to avoid overcrowding and increase air flow around the leaves.
 
Downy mildew is a fungus which causes whitish grey patches on the leaves. To help prevent this, avoid overhead watering, provide adequate air circulation, and space your plants correctly.

Powdery mildew is a fungus disease which occurs in humid weather conditions. The leaves appear to have a whitish or greyish surface and may curl. To help prevent this, avoid overhead watering, provide adequate air circulation, and space your plants correctly.

Rust is a fungus that causes rust coloured spots on foliage and stalks. To help prevent this, avoid overhead watering, provide adequate air circulation, and space your plants correctly. Practicing crop rotation and removing infected plants will also help.

Warning:

Centaurea cyanus are non-toxic to humans, dogs and cats.

Thursday, 25 July 2013 00:28

Forget-me-not - Myosotis alpestris

Forget-me-not. Picture courtesy Anita GouldForget-me-not. Picture courtesy Anita GouldForget-me-not is native to Europe and is a popular biennial, or short-lived perennial that is grown as a spring and summer flowering annual in South Africa. This charming plant produces an abundance of tiny azure-blue flower spikes and has small hairy, green leaves.

Even though the individual flowers are very small, the overall effect is a lovely, carpeted effect in the garden. These flowers are regarded by many as the mainstay of the English cottage garden and they blend beautifully with bulbs. Plant them in rock and pebble gardens, in woodland gardens and as a border plant.

Forget-me-not grows throughout the country but is sensitive to humidity. Plant it in semi-shade or sun and water it regularly, especially in the winter rainfall regions. In hot regions grow it in semi-shade. This plant grows in ordinary garden soil but a rich, sandy loam is best. Add a dusting of lime to the soil. It will grow quickly to about 20cm tall and 15cm wide.

Seed is sown directly into prepared garden beds in spring and germinates best in soil temperatures of about 20°C. Cover the seed very lightly with soil as they need light to germinate. Germination can take 7 to 14 days and the plants should bloom within 90 days. Forget-me-nots will seed themselves around the garden and some gardeners may find this perennial invasive but others will appreciate the ready self-sowing in the landscape. Simply weed out or mulch over the plants that pop-up where they aren't desired. Forget-me-not plants do best in moist soil conditions so the plant may not spread as readily in drier garden conditions.

Trumpet-flower. Picture courtesy Green Acres Nursery California   Trumpet-flower. Picture courtesy Green Acres Nursery California

These easy-to-grow annuals are native to Chile and produce amazing funnel-shaped flowers, in summer. The flowers can be clear or exquisitely veined in contrasting colours. The flowers bloom upright upon slender but strong branches and the petunia-like flowers come in unusual shades of cream, mahogany and brown as well as a wide spectrum of yellows, oranges and reds, to cool violets and blues.

 

Trumpet-flowers are available in short and tall varieties, growing from 30 to 40cm tall or 60 to 90cm tall. The taller varieties will add striking background colour to your mixed flower beds. The smaller ones grow easily in pots on a wind protected terrace. The flowers last long in a vase.

 

The Trumpet-flower grows well in the temperate regions of the country in spring and summer. It needs regular watering in the drier regions, does not enjoy high humidity and is not suitable for very hot regions. Plant it in full sun in sandy, compost enriched soil that drains well. Pinch back the growing tips to induce branching. Gangly stems may need staking. Keep weeds cleared away, and deadhead regularly to keep the plants blooming for longer. Prune back your plants in late summer and they will flower again in autumn.

 

Seed is easy to germinate and is usually sown directly into well-prepared garden beds in spring, as the plants resent disturbance. The ideal soil germination temperatures are between 21 and 25°C. Sow the seeds thinly and cover lightly with soil. Germination will usually take 14 to 30 days and the plants will start blooming from mid-summer, if sown in spring.

 

 

Thursday, 25 July 2013 00:28

Dipladenia - Mandevilla varieties

Mandevilla 'Alice du Pont'Mandevilla 'Alice du Pont'These evergreen climbers were formally known as Dipladenia.

They are one of the most prolific and free-flowering plants available to gardeners. They will bloom from early spring, right through summer and into late autumn.

In South Africa the Mandevilla x amabilis 'Alice du Pont' is the most well known variety and is an unforgettable Mandevilla 'Pink Parfait'Mandevilla 'Pink Parfait'sight with its trusses of large, trumpet-shaped, rose pink blooms. Recently the 'Sundaville' varieties were introduced to the market and are now available in pink, white and red. The rich, glossy green leaves are a perfect foil for their delicate blooms.  

Mandevilla's vary in height from  compact, semi-climbers to large, vigorous climbers. Try planting the smaller growing varieties into hanging baskets and window boxes or let them creep up a small trellis.

Mandeville 'My Fair Lady'Mandeville 'My Fair Lady'Mandevilla's grow best in warm, moist, humid regions and are tender to frost but can be grown in light frost areas inland, if they are planted in a very warm, protected position and covered in winter. Mandevilla's are easy to grow in full sun or light shade and must be planted in rich, well-drained soil.

These woody climbers require a trellis or support and must have a free flow of air around their leaves. Do not place them against a hot, solid brick wall for instance. Rather train them up a light trellis or pool fence. On the other hand, do not plant them where very strong winds occur, as this will spoil the delicate flowers.  

Feed them monthly in summer with a balanced organic fertiliser that promotes flowering, water regularly and enjoy the floriferous rewards that only the magnificent Mandevilla can give.

During hot, dry spells, hose down the foliage regularly with water and be on the lookout for scale insects and red spider mite. Spray with Oleum to control these, as well as aphids.

Mandevilla Sundaville 'Red'Mandevilla Sundaville 'Red'(Mandeville 'My Fair Lady') is a semi-climber with white flowers.  It grows +-50cm tall and +-50cm wide.

(Mandevilla 'Alice du Pont') is a climber with pink flowers

(Mandevilla Sundaville 'Red') is a semi-climber with red flowers.  It grows +-50cm tall and +-50cm wide.

(Mandevilla 'Pink Parfait') is a climber with double pink flowers.

Thursday, 25 July 2013 00:28

Ivy - Hedera

Hedera helix 'Gold Child' Picture courtesy www.steyns-nursery.co.zaHedera helix 'Gold Child' Picture courtesy www.steyns-nursery.co.zaDescription, History & Interesting Facts:

Hedera is a genus of 12 to 15 species of evergreen, woody, climbing or ground-creeping plants in the family Araliaceae; native to western, central and southern Europe, Macaronesia, north-western Africa and across central-southern Asia east to Japan and Taiwan.

Ivy is one of the survivors of the laurel forest (laurisilva) flora, a type of cloud forest habitat, which originally covered much of the Mediterranean Basin when the climate of the region was more humid, in the Tertiary era. These forests disappeared approximately ten thousand years ago at the end of the Pleistocene era, when the climate of the region became harsher and drier. Today laurel forests persist in some oceanic and island enclaves, and Macaronesian islands in the North Atlantic Ocean, where climatic extremes have been moderated.

An ivy plant has two distinct two leaf types, the juvenile leaves are palmately lobed and are borne on the creeping and climbing stems; while the adult leaves are un-lobed and are borne on fertile flowering stems which are exposed to full sun, usually high in the crowns of trees or the tops of rock faces. The juvenile shoots are slender, flexible and scramble or climb with small aerial roots; while the mature shoots are thicker and self-supporting without roots.

Hedera helix 'Gold Dust' Picture courtesy www.steyns-nursery.co.zaHedera helix 'Gold Dust' Picture courtesy www.steyns-nursery.co.zaIn autumn to early winter, umbels of greenish-yellow flowers with five small petals, and very rich in nectar, are produced. The fruit is a berry-like, black drupe with fruit containing 2 to 5 seeds, and ripening in late winter to mid-spring; these are dispersed by birds which relish the berries. The leaves are also eaten by the larvae of some species of butterflies and moths.

Hedera species differ in the detail of their leaf shapes and sizes (particularly of the juvenile leaves), and to a lesser extent, the colour of the flowers and fruit. There is a wide variety of ornamental ivies for the garden with a fascinating variety of intricately fluted, crinkled, cut-edged leaves, and an inconceivably wide range of sizes, shapes, and colour markings; ranging from ones with tiny silver-edged leaves, and those with glossy dark green leaves shaped like a perfect hearts.

The leaves of some cultivars are so closely crowded, they pile up on each other, while others have long, graceful stems which create an airy, open form; in some varieties no two leaves are exactly alike, and with others each new leaf is a perfect replica of the last. Some are dwarfs and suitable for small pots, while others may climb vigorously.

Common or English ivy (Hedera helix) and Canary Island Ivy (Hedera canariensis) are closely related, and only their many garden cultivars may now be grown, as the English and Canary Ivy are now classified as Category 3 invader plants, and may no longer be  grown or sold in South Africa.

Click here to read more about these invasives.

Hedera 'Little Diamond' Picture courtesy www.steyns-nursery.co.zaHedera 'Little Diamond' Picture courtesy www.steyns-nursery.co.zaIn the Garden:

Ivies are very popular in cultivation for their evergreen foliage, and for adaptable design uses in narrow planting spaces. They are aesthetically pleasing on tall or wide walls, or to hide unsightly walls, fences and tree stumps.

Ivy combines well with other foliage plants and is very tolerant of variable light and temperature conditions. If left with no support they make excellent low maintenance climbers for large areas where the grass won’t grow; and will stabilise the soil on steep banks.

They are also very decorative if grow in containers, looking fresh and green all year round. If planted against the house, ivy should be pruned and trained carefully to prevent it from overtaking window frames, gutters, or getting under shingles or clapboard. The greenery lasts well in floral arrangements and is a favourite for Christmas floral arrangements.

Hedera 'Sulphur Heart' Picture courtesy www.steyns-nursery.co.zaHedera 'Sulphur Heart' Picture courtesy www.steyns-nursery.co.zaCultivation/Propagation:

Ivies are evergreen and grow well throughout the country; and especially in regions with a high summer rainfall. Their hardiness depends on the cultivar, but generally the plants are hardy to all but very severe frost. Cultivars also vary in height and spread, with the larger leaved varieties generally spreading more than the smaller ones. Plants will usually grow well in sun, semi-shade or full shade; but in very hot regions all will benefit from some shade.

These vines are not fussy about soil, as long as drainage is good; rich soils with high humus content produce faster, lusher growth; while leaner soil helps restrain growth. For best results water moderately during dry spells, ensuring that the soil remains moist, but not soggy. In the heat of summer the foliage will benefit from frequent washing with a hose to clean away dust, dirt, and insects.

Ivy can be pruned as required in spring or summer but exercise caution when handling it if you have sensitive skin, as its sap can be irritating.

It propagates itself naturally by layering; so simply cut off the rooted stems where they touch the ground and re-plant. Stem cuttings, both tips and sections, also root readily – often in a glass of water.

Trachelospermum jasminiodesTrachelospermum jasminiodesThis versatile evergreen plant is native to eastern and south-eastern Asia, Japan, Korea, southern China and Vietnam. It is grown for its masses of small, heavily scented, starry white flowers in late spring and early summer. A perfume is extracted from the flowers. The attractive leathery, dark green leaves turn bronze in winter and the new growth is a lovely fresh green. It should be noted that star jasmine is not a "true" jasmine. The name T. jasminoides honors the wonderful jasmine-like perfume produced by this vine. There is also a very attractive variegated form with green and cream, pink-tinged leaves. 'Variegatum' is a less vigorous grower than the species.

Use star jasmine to cover fences and pergolas or to clamber up tree trunks. It will soften concrete and brick walls and absorb heat in urban landscapes. This plant works well in containers and urns and the variegated variety is especially nice in hanging baskets. Star jasmine is a fairly maintenance-free groundcover for large areas, where it will scramble all over itself and may be sheared to maintain a height of about 40 to 60cm. Star jasmine can also be grown as bushes by regularly pinching off the tips of the stems, and standard specimen plants are available.

'Variegatum' Picture courtesy Green Acres Nursery California'Variegatum' Picture courtesy Green Acres Nursery CaliforniaStar jasmine is a fast growing woody vine that can reach 10 meters under optimal growing conditions in warm humid regions; but usually grows about 5 to 7m tall and 2m wide. It grows easily throughout South Africa and is hardy to all but severe frost, tolerating temperatures up to -5°C. In cold regions plant it in a sheltered part of the garden and water moderately in winter. Star jasmine will tolerate drought once established but does best in the garden if it is watered regularly in summer.

This plant will grow in full sun or semi-shade and prefers well-drained, composted soil. Fertilize every two months in spring and summer. As a groundcover, it can be pinched or clipped back at any time. As a climber it needs regular trimming to prevent leggy growth.

The star jasmine is easily propagated from semi-hardwood cuttings taken in spring and early summer, or autumn.

Thursday, 25 July 2013 00:28

Kings Mantle - Thunbergia erecta

Thunbergia togensisThunbergia togensisThunbergia is a genus of about 100 mainly twining species and evergreen shrubs from Africa, Asia and Madagascar. Thunbergia erecta occurs in tropical West Africa and is grown for its small, dark green leaves and tubular flowers, which in the most common form are an intense violet-blue with a yellow throat; at times, depending on the amount of light, the flowers have a more bluish hue. There is also a white-flowering form, which seems to have smaller leaves and is somewhat less robust. The Kings Mantle flowers sporadically all year round, but especially during the warm summer months. It is a vigorous, freestanding, twining shrub that can be trained up a support as a climber, or allowed to spill over a wall. It is also a good addition to the flower border if it is pruned into a free-standing shrub; and its tolerance of pruning, together with its small leaves and continuous growth, make it well suited to maintain as a hedge.
 
This tender evergreen grows best in warm, moist frost-free conditions. It will tolerate light frost if planted in a warm protected position; in cold regions it might die down completely, only to spring back to life again in summer. It needs protection from strong winds and can be planted in sun or semi-shade. The kings mantle will grow in any good, well-drained soil; acidic; alkaline; sand; loam; or clay. Although it is moderately drought hardy it responds well to regular watering during dry spells. If left un-pruned this plant will grow very quickly to about 2.4m tall and 2m wide, but is usually clipped to keep it about 1.5m tall and 1m wide Prune lightly throughout the year after flowering to maintain its bushy look and to keep it confined to its space.

It is easily propagated from softwood cuttings or by simple layering.

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